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I’m 98% sure it’s because I didn’t relieve fuel pressure before starting after replacing the chain and tensioner. I pulled the fuel pump fuse but never ran the engine until it died afterwards, so my motor started as soon as I pressed the ignition. I’m doing this job again probably next weekend and then it should be good to go. Confirmed with a Nissan tech that it probably jumped due to tensioner not being primed with oil on first start.

One way to prime the tensioner on the first start after replacing, is holding down the gas pedal to the floor, holding the brake and then pressing start engine. The engine will crank and not start, as long as you hold that gas pedal all the way down. Or obviously pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the engine dry until it stalls, prior to starting the job.
Awesome thanks for the tips! I got a quote for the required parts but they added a bunch of seals (including crank seal) and valve cover gaskets etc and I'm trying to figure out why those would have to come off for this job. It's just the timing cover and crank seal/gasket and that would be required, no? I wonder if they just do those since they have it mostly apart, may as well do the seals and gaskets while they are accessible.

Anyway for those interested, in Canada (Victoria, BC) costs for parts they quoted came to about $1450 (including all those other seals and gaskets). I also got a quote for the labor just to see and it was 11.5 hours at the $160/hr shop rate so $1840 (barring any unforeseen complications).
 
I’m 98% sure it’s because I didn’t relieve fuel pressure before starting after replacing the chain and tensioner. I pulled the fuel pump fuse but never ran the engine until it died afterwards, so my motor started as soon as I pressed the ignition. I’m doing this job again probably next weekend...
Man I hope this fixes it for you!

Provided you had all the timing marks lined up 100% before you buttoned it up, I have a hard time grasping how that quick fire-up cause it, but I guess you never know.

I definitely have to commend you guys doing this job yourself. I don't know if I have the dexterity, strength and patience for a job of this scope.

Given the costs and lack of shops that would want to do it, you can see where a lot of cars would be scrapped for this today. To think people whined about timing belts? Those were better days IMO.
 
Man I hope this fixes it for you!

Provided you had all the timing marks lined up 100% before you buttoned it up, I have a hard time grasping how that quick fire-up cause it, but I guess you never know.

I definitely have to commend you guys doing this job yourself. I don't know if I have the dexterity, strength and patience for a job of this scope.

Given the costs and lack of shops that would want to do it, you can see where a lot of cars would be scrapped for this today. To think people whined about timing belts? Those were better days IMO.
Haha thanks man! I started today at 3:00PM and I just finished taking out the bolts for the timing cover so it’s ready to come out. 2.5 hours and I’m half way done! I’m praying this works so I can trade it in without a check engine code!
 
Haha thanks man! I started today at 3:00PM and I just finished taking out the bolts for the timing cover so it’s ready to come out. 2.5 hours and I’m half way done! I’m praying this works so I can trade it in without a check engine code!
Best of luck to you.

All I can hope for is all the short succession, 5w30 instead of 0w20 oil changes I've been doing on my 2019 Pathfinder for the past 4yrs allow it to live on to 150K miles or so without these problems. I've never run the recommended 0w20 in my 2019, since I bought it as en ex-rental in 2019 w/ 25K miles on it.
 
Best of luck to you.

All I can hope for is all the short succession, 5w30 instead of 0w20 oil changes I've been doing on my 2019 Pathfinder for the past 4yrs allow it to live on to 150K miles or so without these problems. I've never run the recommended 0w20 in my 2019, since I bought it as en ex-rental in 2019 w/ 25K miles on it.
Oh that’s interesting! What made you decide to run the 5w30?
 
Oh that’s interesting! What made you decide to run the 5w30?
My personal opinion on this is, I trust a slightly thicker 5w30 over thinner 0w20 in the long run in terms of offering more engine protection. Manufacturers are forced to recommend 0w20 and even 0w16 as a fuel savings measure, not necessarily because it protects the engine better.

Back around 2019 is when all the issues started pouring in on forums like this one in regards to the 2017+ VQ35DD forming massive amounts of sludge, eventually leading to oil starvation and engine destruction. Others had excessive timing chain wear.

The only thing I've noticed with my 2019 is it turns the engine oil jet black in very little miles. I noticed this right away after buying it used. For this reason, I wont go beyond 3500-4000 miles between synthetic 5w30 oil changes. I use low cost oil and filters because of the low miles and short time between oil changes.
 
My personal opinion on this is, I trust a slightly thicker 5w30 over thinner 0w20 in the long run in terms of offering more engine protection. Manufacturers are forced to recommend 0w20 and even 0w16 as a fuel savings measure, not necessarily because it protects the engine better.

Back around 2019 is when all the issues started pouring in on forums like this one in regards to the 2017+ VQ35DD forming massive amounts of sludge, eventually leading to oil starvation and engine destruction. Others had excessive timing chain wear.

The only thing I've noticed with my 2019 is it turns the engine oil jet black in very little miles. I noticed this right away after buying it used. For this reason, I wont go beyond 3500-4000 miles between synthetic 5w30 oil changes. I use low cost oil and filters because of the low miles and short time between oil changes.
Definitely makes sense! Also not the first time I’ve heard of somebody using 5w30 so maybe it’s worth a try!
 

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So still no p0017 or p0014 but now I’m getting p06da-00. I’m just happy I’m not getting the timing codes!
Looks like that code is an oil pressure control issue. I wonder if it's a pin fitment issue for a solenoid or oil pressure sensor. Can you trend oil pressure to see if you're getting weird readings?
 
Looks like that code is an oil pressure control issue. I wonder if it's a pin fitment issue for a solenoid or oil pressure sensor. Can you trend oil pressure to see if you're getting weird readings?
I quickly hooked up my sensor and did a data stream but I didn’t see oil pressure as a point. I’m sure my scanner can do that, just in a rush cause I’m going to a wedding today. Will dive deeper into it tomorrow!
 
This post has confirmed to me that I will not be doing this job myself.. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done 100% of the out of warranty work on my vehicle myself (I'm doing two front axles & bearings tomorrow), but this looks like a nightmare I can't afford to stumble through & screw up.

Hoping my religious maintenance & always letting it warm up fully before driving has helped keep it in check, but as I'm coming up on nearly 180,000 KM I'm going to have to face this problem myself soon. How easy was it to get to the inspection cover? My main concern is I don't really know what's going on inside my engine at the moment, other than that I've treated it the best I can since I got it as an ex rental at 16,000 KM.
 
This post has confirmed to me that I will not be doing this job myself.. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done 100% of the out of warranty work on my vehicle myself (I'm doing two front axles & bearings tomorrow), but this looks like a nightmare I can't afford to stumble through & screw up.

Hoping my religious maintenance & always letting it warm up fully before driving has helped keep it in check, but as I'm coming up on nearly 180,000 KM I'm going to have to face this problem myself soon. How easy was it to get to the inspection cover? My main concern is I don't really know what's going on inside my engine at the moment, other than that I've treated it the best I can since I got it as an ex rental at 16,000 KM.
So you have about 112K miles on your 2018. It it making sloppy chain noises? If not, you should be good to go. Main thing is, how often have you done your engine oil changes. You almost have to do them twice as often as Nissan recommends if you want maximum engine longevity on the VQ35DD. I'm at 100K miles on our 2019 that was an ex-rental that basically had one oil change at 12K miles, then another just before I bought in 2019 with 25K miles on it. I've been doing them every ~3500miles since, with 5w30, because synthetic 5w30 makes me feel better than thinner 0w20. I have zero signs of sludge in my oil filter media when I cut my used filters open and she looks clean down the oil filler hole yet.
 
So you have about 112K miles on your 2018. It it making sloppy chain noises? If not, you should be good to go. Main thing is, how often have you done your engine oil changes. You almost have to do them twice as often as Nissan recommends if you want maximum engine longevity on the VQ35DD. I'm at 100K miles on our 2019 that was an ex-rental that basically had one oil change at 12K miles, then another just before I bought in 2019 with 25K miles on it. I've been doing them every ~3500miles since, with 5w30, because synthetic 5w30 makes me feel better than thinner 0w20. I have zero signs of sludge in my oil filter media when I cut my used filters open and she looks clean down the oil filler hole yet.
When cold it makes a pretty loud ticking noise, almost like a diesel engine. Difficult to tell where the noise is coming from, other than that it's in the engine bay and it quiets down when RPM is lowered.
It's always been kinda loud, and I've equated this to the injectors rather than timing chain-- but as it gets colder outside it does seem to be getting louder. I hate paying shops to work on my vehicles,

I do my changes at least every 7500KM (~4600 Miles). I am now going to be shortening the interval to 5000KM (~3100 Miles), and I've always used the recommended fully synthetic oil. I don't remember off the top of my head if I'm using 0w20 or 5w30-- I believe I stuck with 0w20 as I live in a colder climate. In Canada, Nissan recommends either.

I do like your idea of cutting open every filter, though, I'm going to start doing that.
 
Thanks for the update! Have you had a chance to test drive yet?
Unfortunately P0014 and P0017 came back. I will be doing this job for the 3rd and final time, I’m changing all 4 cam sprockets, the suspected problem is the intake cam sprocket is hanging up. If this does not fix the problem, I’ll be paying a dealership the negative balance I’ll owe for a trade in! Will update when the parts come in and I’ve completed the job lol
 
Unfortunately P0014 and P0017 came back. I will be doing this job for the 3rd and final time, I’m changing all 4 cam sprockets, the suspected problem is the intake cam sprocket is hanging up. If this does not fix the problem, I’ll be paying a dealership the negative balance I’ll owe for a trade in! Will update when the parts come in and I’ve completed the job lol
I hear you on the trade in. Good luck! If it's running ok otherwise maybe a faulty sensor? Mine started running real rough last night while warm which is new (normally just when cold). I know the timing chain needs to be done due to the rattle when cold and where the sound is coming from but i believe there is at least one other issue going on and it's deteriorating. Getting P03xx misfire codes, p0014/17/19 and new one is p0024. Loss of power until warm (turn vehicle off and turn back on and all the power is back). However, Idle was low and rough last night, almost felt like stalling coming to a stop sign. Going to be ordering parts this week and get in to it. May as well do plugs at the same time. That said I'm starting to think your last solution about taking the hit on the trade-in might be the way to go...
 
I hear you on the trade in. Good luck! If it's running ok otherwise maybe a faulty sensor? Mine started running real rough last night while warm which is new (normally just when cold). I know the timing chain needs to be done due to the rattle when cold and where the sound is coming from but i believe there is at least one other issue going on and it's deteriorating. Getting P03xx misfire codes, p0014/17/19 and new one is p0024. Loss of power until warm (turn vehicle off and turn back on and all the power is back). However, Idle was low and rough last night, almost felt like stalling coming to a stop sign. Going to be ordering parts this week and get in to it. May as well do plugs at the same time. That said I'm starting to think your last solution about taking the hit on the trade-in might be the way to go...
Oh wow that’s a plethora of codes! My pathfinder runs great! Plenty of power, no sputtering nothing, that’s why this really sucks. I’ve changed the crank sensor and both bank 1 cam sensors. Due to how much sludge and junk I’ve cleaned from this motor, im guessing it made its way into the vvt cam phasers. Maybe your pcv hose is collapsed behind the intake causing the stalling, or the spark plugs for sure 😳
 
Oh wow that’s a plethora of codes! My pathfinder runs great! Plenty of power, no sputtering nothing, that’s why this really sucks. I’ve changed the crank sensor and both bank 1 cam sensors. Due to how much sludge and junk I’ve cleaned from this motor, im guessing it made its way into the vvt cam phasers. Maybe your pcv hose is collapsed behind the intake causing the stalling, or the spark plugs for sure 😳
Well hasn't actually stalled was just a weird low idle and a bit rougher on take off. Power loss is almost constant now but usually still comes back on a restart when warmed up.
 
Well hasn't actually stalled was just a weird low idle and a bit rougher on take off. Power loss is almost constant now but usually still comes back on a restart when warmed up.
You can try clearing the codes while running, if you hear a change in how it runs then you know the computer is trying to protect the motor. If no change then I think your timing jumped pretty far out causing all of your issues, I probably wouldn’t drive it anymore or you can run the risk of hitting a piston into a valve and then your really screwed!
 
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