[OMurchadh]

I was the original poster, but forgot my login. I did manage to get it done with the engine in. Cover went on without too much difficulty with two people doing it from top and bottom. No leaks. Worst part for me was the crank bolt. Had to wire pully with steel cable to hold it and cable would stretch. Almost shoved clothesline down a cylinder. Three different impacts did not work. Even a special hi torque one. Breakers with pipes didn't work. Finally with me holding the end of a long extension (to get out past fender), and expecting to wind up in the hospital, and using a longer pipe on the shoulder of a 6'5" 240 guy, it finally came loose. I have pics somewhere, I'll have to dig them up.

Would love to see the pics. looking to get into this myself but a little put off by the codes coming back for StreetStyle... maybe a sensor issue?

 

[OMurchadh]

I’m 98% sure it’s because I didn’t relieve fuel pressure before starting after replacing the chain and tensioner. I pulled the fuel pump fuse but never ran the engine until it died afterwards, so my motor started as soon as I pressed the ignition. I’m doing this job again probably next weekend and then it should be good to go. Confirmed with a Nissan tech that it probably jumped due to tensioner not being primed with oil on first start.

One way to prime the tensioner on the first start after replacing, is holding down the gas pedal to the floor, holding the brake and then pressing start engine. The engine will crank and not start, as long as you hold that gas pedal all the way down. Or obviously pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the engine dry until it stalls, prior to starting the job.

Awesome thanks for the tips! I got a quote for the required parts but they added a bunch of seals (including crank seal) and valve cover gaskets etc and I'm trying to figure out why those would have to come off for this job. It's just the timing cover and crank seal/gasket and that would be required, no? I wonder if they just do those since they have it mostly apart, may as well do the seals and gaskets while they are accessible.

Anyway for those interested, in Canada (Victoria, BC) costs for parts they quoted came to about $1450 (including all those other seals and gaskets). I also got a quote for the labor just to see and it was 11.5 hours at the $160/hr shop rate so $1840 (barring any unforeseen complications).

 

[OMurchadh]

So I finished the job today, I’m running 2 to 3 degrees on both intakes at idle! Praying this is it!! Will update once it gets driven, happy thanksgiving everybody!

Thanks for the update! Have you had a chance to test drive yet?

 

[OMurchadh]

Unfortunately P0014 and P0017 came back. I will be doing this job for the 3rd and final time, I’m changing all 4 cam sprockets, the suspected problem is the intake cam sprocket is hanging up. If this does not fix the problem, I’ll be paying a dealership the negative balance I’ll owe for a trade in! Will update when the parts come in and I’ve completed the job lol

I hear you on the trade in. Good luck! If it's running ok otherwise maybe a faulty sensor? Mine started running real rough last night while warm which is new (normally just when cold). I know the timing chain needs to be done due to the rattle when cold and where the sound is coming from but i believe there is at least one other issue going on and it's deteriorating. Getting P03xx misfire codes, p0014/17/19 and new one is p0024. Loss of power until warm (turn vehicle off and turn back on and all the power is back). However, Idle was low and rough last night, almost felt like stalling coming to a stop sign. Going to be ordering parts this week and get in to it. May as well do plugs at the same time. That said I'm starting to think your last solution about taking the hit on the trade-in might be the way to go...

 

[OMurchadh]

Oh wow that’s a plethora of codes! My pathfinder runs great! Plenty of power, no sputtering nothing, that’s why this really sucks. I’ve changed the crank sensor and both bank 1 cam sensors. Due to how much sludge and junk I’ve cleaned from this motor, im guessing it made its way into the vvt cam phasers. Maybe your pcv hose is collapsed behind the intake causing the stalling, or the spark plugs for sure 😳

Well hasn't actually stalled was just a weird low idle and a bit rougher on take off. Power loss is almost constant now but usually still comes back on a restart when warmed up.

 

[OMurchadh]

You can try clearing the codes while running, if you hear a change in how it runs then you know the computer is trying to protect the motor. If no change then I think your timing jumped pretty far out causing all of your issues, I probably wouldn’t drive it anymore or you can run the risk of hitting a piston into a valve and then your really screwed!

Yes I was a bit worried about that last night. Started up this morning and was fine. Ran an errand at lunch and had full power cold so... weird issues. Anyway thanks for the tips and following up on your issue.

 

[OMurchadh]

I haven't yet. good suggestion though. I will try that when I have it apart. I know the TChain components need replacement based on the noise and where it's coming from but that solenoid issue could be one of the contributing factors to what I'm experiencing. I'm going to replace sparkplugs as well while i have the intake off given it's at 168000km. I ended up ordering from the local dealership and got a bit of a deal since I used to work there so it worked out to be a bit less than what I saw in the link you sent. Hoping to receive tomorrow and go at it this weekend.

 

[OMurchadh]

How are you making out? Were you able to start it last weekend? I just started today and I’m relieved right now because I was able to get the 4 cam sprocket bolts loose! Didn’t even have to remove the valve covers, impact fit on 3 of them, and for the back exhaust sprocket closest to the firewall I was able to use a chain vice grip and a 1/2” breaker bar. Will hopefully be done with this Thursday so I’ll update the forum!

Awesome! Yea i started on the weekend but struggled 4hrs getting the crank bolt out. Had to go buy 3/4" x 30" breaker bar and thankfully i had an old drive belt kicking around to hold the crank. Took 5 minutes with the 3/4 bar sheesh. Anyway now trying to seperate the oil pan without wrecking it. Any tips? It's glued on hard. I see there's a special tool that gets in there. Anyway i should have it done today. I've got the day to work on it.

 

[OMurchadh]

Niceee yea I had to go out and buy an impact gun and the bolt came off pretty easily! The oil pan I had to use a super skinny flat head and hammer it in until it started to seperate. I worked my way around and it eventually spread enough to stick a bigger flat head inside. Hope that helps!

Thanks yea I'm starting with a metal putty knife and will work my way up. Going to apply some heat to see if that helps at least make it more pliable. Cheers

 

[OMurchadh]

Finished the job today. No check engine light yet. I’m saying yet because it was taking a while to come on previously 😂 I held the gas pedal and brake and started it up 4 times to get the oil flowing. She started right up, performed the intake control relearn and test drove it. She runs smooth and I’m seeing an increase in gas mpg which may be a good sign? Only time will tell and maybe I’ll be able to get the inspection done, that was due since July 😅 no oil leaks this time.

Exhaust cams are running at 0 degrees at idle and intakes are at -1.0 and -1.5. Prayers I got it this time!

Oh, and this was my THIRD and LAST time I will be opening that timing cover no matter what haha

I'm still apart, finally got everything off to get the chain out, and starting to put everything back together. Not looking forward to putting the cover back in, will definitely be a pain. So many dumb little clips and brackets all over just so time consuming anyway we'll see how it goes. I haven't been able to get a specific procedure for the vq35dd and going off the de which is a bit different. I didn't see a mark on the oil pump to match the crank sprocket key to, but relatively sane position (about 11 oclock) with the cam marks at 10 and 2 oclock respectively (as mentioned in anything I've found on the DE). Wishing you luck that your light stays off!

 

[OMurchadh]

 

[OMurchadh]

So I’m getting her inspected tomorrow I can’t believe it!! It’s been so long since I’ve seen 8 monitors ready. Will update tomorrow as long as everything goes good!

Awesome good luck!

 

[OMurchadh]

Awesome good luck!

Here i am, chains on, rotated a few times to ensure no valves meeting pistons. Cleaning up cover to reinstall tomorrow morning.

 

[OMurchadh]

Good ****!

Looks good man! I also have successfully passed inspection. Do a couple of dry runs getting the timing cover in so you can see what you might hit. That’s probably the smartest thing I did haha it went back in without touching a thing!

Yup did that haha but still not great. Got it on though so making progress. Now if i can figure out how to replace these oil seals as instructed without them breaking (unless they are supposed to be split) I'd be happy.

*edit, looks like they are supposed to be split.

 

[OMurchadh]

My left cam chain guide and upper main guide were a bit worn but not too bad. Quite a bit of slack in the main chain though.