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2017 Timing Chain

50K views 97 replies 16 participants last post by  Bravo64  
I know this is a while after the fact, but were you successful in getting it changed without removing the engine? Mine has started having the telltale signs of a stretched timing chain and/or guides. I have the tools and know-how to replace it if I don't have to remove the engine (have done timing belts and waterpumps on 2 other vehicles I own), but don't have the tools or space or know-how to do an engine removal.

I am just wondering whether you were successful and if you have any tips and tricks you learned along the way.
I am currently doing this in the vehicle, 3 hours and I have to remove the crank pulley and then start removing the timing cover bolts. I may have to disconnect the AC lines but I’m going to try to sneak the cover passed. Will update this post or create a new one with everything that I’ve done!
 
I honestly wish I knew about this forum before I bought this car at 80k miles. Oil changes were on the car fax so I didn’t think anything of it. I can’t believe how much sludge is all over the sump. The crank bolt was a pita but it’s out so hopefully tomorrow I’ll have the timing cover off!
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We’ll I got the timing cover off. I can see why they recommend removing the engine lol. Hardest part was getting the alternator bolt out honestly and then just turning the timing cover like 90 degrees and up. More sludge to clean, not surprised. I’m at TDC but have to spin it a couple more times to see if the marks all line up. It got dark so I’ll be continuing tomorrow!
 
@Streetstyle54 thanks for posting the pics! Excellent work!

Hopefully it's not a nightmare getting the timing cover back in place without wiping the rtv off. I'd hate to have to pull that sucker again.
Thanks man, I hope so too. Going to do a couple test runs dry and hope for the best! If it leaks that motors coming out but at least I’ll be able to see if it resolves the issue. 😬
 
We’ll, got it all back together and in getting cylinder 1 3 and 5 injector open circuit codes. Ugh I can’t imagine I even unplugged anything that relates to the injectors. Time for more diag! It runs but alittle rough but sounds good timing wise and no leaks so that’s cool.
P0201 p0203 p0205
 
But for anybody else doing this, it’s a bear to get that timing chain cover back in. I had to take the AC lines out but only drop them because they can’t come out while the motors in place. Also, do yourselves a favor and remove the front radiator and fans because getting that alternator bolt out and in, destroyed my knuckles. Total time was about 14 hours. Surprisingly no leaks, I used the black felpro gasket sealer that came with the timing cover set from AutoZone. Not impossible!
 
Nissan harness connectors can be a pain. I'd be sure to check any ground that got disturbed as well.
Wow, hit the nail on the head, I accidentally joined 2 grounds that were next to each other under 1 bolt but after separating, code is gone haha that’s awesome, 1 less code for the trade in ^.^
 
Would love to see the pics. looking to get into this myself but a little put off by the codes coming back for StreetStyle... maybe a sensor issue?
I’m 98% sure it’s because I didn’t relieve fuel pressure before starting after replacing the chain and tensioner. I pulled the fuel pump fuse but never ran the engine until it died afterwards, so my motor started as soon as I pressed the ignition. I’m doing this job again probably next weekend and then it should be good to go. Confirmed with a Nissan tech that it probably jumped due to tensioner not being primed with oil on first start.

One way to prime the tensioner on the first start after replacing, is holding down the gas pedal to the floor, holding the brake and then pressing start engine. The engine will crank and not start, as long as you hold that gas pedal all the way down. Or obviously pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the engine dry until it stalls, prior to starting the job.
 
Man I hope this fixes it for you!

Provided you had all the timing marks lined up 100% before you buttoned it up, I have a hard time grasping how that quick fire-up cause it, but I guess you never know.

I definitely have to commend you guys doing this job yourself. I don't know if I have the dexterity, strength and patience for a job of this scope.

Given the costs and lack of shops that would want to do it, you can see where a lot of cars would be scrapped for this today. To think people whined about timing belts? Those were better days IMO.
Haha thanks man! I started today at 3:00PM and I just finished taking out the bolts for the timing cover so it’s ready to come out. 2.5 hours and I’m half way done! I’m praying this works so I can trade it in without a check engine code!
 
Best of luck to you.

All I can hope for is all the short succession, 5w30 instead of 0w20 oil changes I've been doing on my 2019 Pathfinder for the past 4yrs allow it to live on to 150K miles or so without these problems. I've never run the recommended 0w20 in my 2019, since I bought it as en ex-rental in 2019 w/ 25K miles on it.
Oh that’s interesting! What made you decide to run the 5w30?
 
My personal opinion on this is, I trust a slightly thicker 5w30 over thinner 0w20 in the long run in terms of offering more engine protection. Manufacturers are forced to recommend 0w20 and even 0w16 as a fuel savings measure, not necessarily because it protects the engine better.

Back around 2019 is when all the issues started pouring in on forums like this one in regards to the 2017+ VQ35DD forming massive amounts of sludge, eventually leading to oil starvation and engine destruction. Others had excessive timing chain wear.

The only thing I've noticed with my 2019 is it turns the engine oil jet black in very little miles. I noticed this right away after buying it used. For this reason, I wont go beyond 3500-4000 miles between synthetic 5w30 oil changes. I use low cost oil and filters because of the low miles and short time between oil changes.
Definitely makes sense! Also not the first time I’ve heard of somebody using 5w30 so maybe it’s worth a try!
 

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Looks like that code is an oil pressure control issue. I wonder if it's a pin fitment issue for a solenoid or oil pressure sensor. Can you trend oil pressure to see if you're getting weird readings?
I quickly hooked up my sensor and did a data stream but I didn’t see oil pressure as a point. I’m sure my scanner can do that, just in a rush cause I’m going to a wedding today. Will dive deeper into it tomorrow!
 
Thanks for the update! Have you had a chance to test drive yet?
Unfortunately P0014 and P0017 came back. I will be doing this job for the 3rd and final time, I’m changing all 4 cam sprockets, the suspected problem is the intake cam sprocket is hanging up. If this does not fix the problem, I’ll be paying a dealership the negative balance I’ll owe for a trade in! Will update when the parts come in and I’ve completed the job lol
 
I hear you on the trade in. Good luck! If it's running ok otherwise maybe a faulty sensor? Mine started running real rough last night while warm which is new (normally just when cold). I know the timing chain needs to be done due to the rattle when cold and where the sound is coming from but i believe there is at least one other issue going on and it's deteriorating. Getting P03xx misfire codes, p0014/17/19 and new one is p0024. Loss of power until warm (turn vehicle off and turn back on and all the power is back). However, Idle was low and rough last night, almost felt like stalling coming to a stop sign. Going to be ordering parts this week and get in to it. May as well do plugs at the same time. That said I'm starting to think your last solution about taking the hit on the trade-in might be the way to go...
Oh wow that’s a plethora of codes! My pathfinder runs great! Plenty of power, no sputtering nothing, that’s why this really sucks. I’ve changed the crank sensor and both bank 1 cam sensors. Due to how much sludge and junk I’ve cleaned from this motor, im guessing it made its way into the vvt cam phasers. Maybe your pcv hose is collapsed behind the intake causing the stalling, or the spark plugs for sure 😳
 
Well hasn't actually stalled was just a weird low idle and a bit rougher on take off. Power loss is almost constant now but usually still comes back on a restart when warmed up.
You can try clearing the codes while running, if you hear a change in how it runs then you know the computer is trying to protect the motor. If no change then I think your timing jumped pretty far out causing all of your issues, I probably wouldn’t drive it anymore or you can run the risk of hitting a piston into a valve and then your really screwed!
 
Yes I was a bit worried about that last night. Started up this morning and was fine. Ran an errand at lunch and had full power cold so... weird issues. Anyway thanks for the tips and following up on your issue.
Curious, have you removed the vvt solenoids to inspect and if possible apply 12vdc quickly to them to see if they’re working? I’ve read that a failed solenoid caused somebody misfire codes as well.
Update: Also, I received some parts, just waiting on 1 intake sprocket and some gaskets.