It may have been me that stated the engine must come out. I wouldn't think the 2016 VQ35DE manual would be much different in this regard than the 2017+ DD's manual, other than the fuel injection system, lower intake manifold, cylinder heads, etc.

Like you say, there's always other ways to work around access and fitment issues other than what the factory service manual says. Sometimes it's a heck of a lot faster and less expensive. Other times, not so much. Like you say, I think being able to be sure to do a good RTV job is the key to this and will require all that work to be done again if it leaks.

I'm more interested in what happened with your DD's timing chains?

 

Dunno, just poor maint. by originaI owner I guess.
I expected to find a broken guide, but guide seems fine.
Chain was super loose and tensioner was fully extended.
New parts supposed to be here tomorrow.

 

I know this is a while after the fact, but were you successful in getting it changed without removing the engine? Mine has started having the telltale signs of a stretched timing chain and/or guides. I have the tools and know-how to replace it if I don't have to remove the engine (have done timing belts and waterpumps on 2 other vehicles I own), but don't have the tools or space or know-how to do an engine removal.

I am just wondering whether you were successful and if you have any tips and tricks you learned along the way.

 

What made you go after pulling the cover off? That job is going to absolutely suck with the engine in the car.

Are you replacing all three chains? The rear cover has paper gaskets on the back where when they blow out, you can see them hanging down and results and nearly no oil pressure.

I would think you'd find something obviously wrong since there isn't much slack even with the tensioner in all the way.

Make sure you get all of the o rings to replace and I'd replace all of the yellow feet on the tensioners. The valve covers may have to be removed to replace the cam chain tensioners on those, but I can't remember now. They def do on the 4.0.

 

More and more people are popping up now having to do this job on the VQ35DD. Given they've been in service now for closing in on 7yrs, it sadly makes some sense.

Hopefully this doesn't become a problem for those of us doing our oil changes well before 5-7K miles.

 

I honestly wish I knew about this forum before I bought this car at 80k miles. Oil changes were on the car fax so I didn’t think anything of it. I can’t believe how much sludge is all over the sump. The crank bolt was a pita but it’s out so hopefully tomorrow I’ll have the timing cover off!

 

We’ll I got the timing cover off. I can see why they recommend removing the engine lol. Hardest part was getting the alternator bolt out honestly and then just turning the timing cover like 90 degrees and up. More sludge to clean, not surprised. I’m at TDC but have to spin it a couple more times to see if the marks all line up. It got dark so I’ll be continuing tomorrow!

 

@Streetstyle54 thanks for posting the pics! Excellent work!

Hopefully it's not a nightmare getting the timing cover back in place without wiping the rtv off. I'd hate to have to pull that sucker again.

 

Thanks man, I hope so too. Going to do a couple test runs dry and hope for the best! If it leaks that motors coming out but at least I’ll be able to see if it resolves the issue. 😬

 

We’ll, got it all back together and in getting cylinder 1 3 and 5 injector open circuit codes. Ugh I can’t imagine I even unplugged anything that relates to the injectors. Time for more diag! It runs but alittle rough but sounds good timing wise and no leaks so that’s cool.
P0201 p0203 p0205

 

Lol I did leave something unplugged but the p0203 didn’t go away, cyclones 3 injector open. Also got the vtc codes, guess the manual relearn method didn’t work

 

Nissan harness connectors can be a pain. I'd be sure to check any ground that got disturbed as well.

 

Thanks man! I’m going to check that but the P0014 and P0017 came back. Ugh such a disappointment, I really wanted to save this truck. Going to try to trade it in this week for a Honda!

 

But for anybody else doing this, it’s a bear to get that timing chain cover back in. I had to take the AC lines out but only drop them because they can’t come out while the motors in place. Also, do yourselves a favor and remove the front radiator and fans because getting that alternator bolt out and in, destroyed my knuckles. Total time was about 14 hours. Surprisingly no leaks, I used the black felpro gasket sealer that came with the timing cover set from AutoZone. Not impossible!

 

I was the original poster, but forgot my login.
I did manage to get it done with the engine in.
Cover went on without too much difficulty with two people doing it from top and bottom.
No leaks.
Worst part for me was the crank bolt.
Had to wire pully with steel cable to hold it and cable would stretch.
Almost shoved clothesline down a cylinder.
Three different impacts did not work. Even a special hi torque one.
Breakers with pipes didn't work.
Finally with me holding the end of a long extension (to get out past fender), and expecting to
wind up in the hospital, and using a longer pipe on the shoulder of a 6'5" 240 guy, it finally came loose.
I have pics somewhere, I'll have to dig them up.

 

I was the original poster, but forgot my login. I did manage to get it done with the engine in. Cover went on without too much difficulty with two people doing it from top and bottom. No leaks. Worst part for me was the crank bolt. Had to wire pully with steel cable to hold it and cable would stretch. Almost shoved clothesline down a cylinder. Three different impacts did not work. Even a special hi torque one. Breakers with pipes didn't work. Finally with me holding the end of a long extension (to get out past fender), and expecting to wind up in the hospital, and using a longer pipe on the shoulder of a 6'5" 240 guy, it finally came loose. I have pics somewhere, I'll have to dig them up.

Would love to see the pics. looking to get into this myself but a little put off by the codes coming back for StreetStyle... maybe a sensor issue?

 

So I finished the job today, I’m running 2 to 3 degrees on both intakes at idle! Praying this is it!! Will update once it gets driven, happy thanksgiving everybody!

 

Thanks for the update! Have you had a chance to test drive yet?

 

So still no p0017 or p0014 but now I’m getting p06da-00. I’m just happy I’m not getting the timing codes!

 

Looks like that code is an oil pressure control issue. I wonder if it's a pin fitment issue for a solenoid or oil pressure sensor. Can you trend oil pressure to see if you're getting weird readings?

 

This post has confirmed to me that I will not be doing this job myself.. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done 100% of the out of warranty work on my vehicle myself (I'm doing two front axles & bearings tomorrow), but this looks like a nightmare I can't afford to stumble through & screw up.

Hoping my religious maintenance & always letting it warm up fully before driving has helped keep it in check, but as I'm coming up on nearly 180,000 KM I'm going to have to face this problem myself soon. How easy was it to get to the inspection cover? My main concern is I don't really know what's going on inside my engine at the moment, other than that I've treated it the best I can since I got it as an ex rental at 16,000 KM.

 

This post has confirmed to me that I will not be doing this job myself.. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done 100% of the out of warranty work on my vehicle myself (I'm doing two front axles & bearings tomorrow), but this looks like a nightmare I can't afford to stumble through & screw up.

Hoping my religious maintenance & always letting it warm up fully before driving has helped keep it in check, but as I'm coming up on nearly 180,000 KM I'm going to have to face this problem myself soon. How easy was it to get to the inspection cover? My main concern is I don't really know what's going on inside my engine at the moment, other than that I've treated it the best I can since I got it as an ex rental at 16,000 KM.

So you have about 112K miles on your 2018. It it making sloppy chain noises? If not, you should be good to go. Main thing is, how often have you done your engine oil changes. You almost have to do them twice as often as Nissan recommends if you want maximum engine longevity on the VQ35DD. I'm at 100K miles on our 2019 that was an ex-rental that basically had one oil change at 12K miles, then another just before I bought in 2019 with 25K miles on it. I've been doing them every ~3500miles since, with 5w30, because synthetic 5w30 makes me feel better than thinner 0w20. I have zero signs of sludge in my oil filter media when I cut my used filters open and she looks clean down the oil filler hole yet.

 

I haven't yet. good suggestion though. I will try that when I have it apart. I know the TChain components need replacement based on the noise and where it's coming from but that solenoid issue could be one of the contributing factors to what I'm experiencing. I'm going to replace sparkplugs as well while i have the intake off given it's at 168000km. I ended up ordering from the local dealership and got a bit of a deal since I used to work there so it worked out to be a bit less than what I saw in the link you sent. Hoping to receive tomorrow and go at it this weekend.

 

How are you making out? Were you able to start it last weekend? I just started today and I’m relieved right now because I was able to get the 4 cam sprocket bolts loose! Didn’t even have to remove the valve covers, impact fit on 3 of them, and for the back exhaust sprocket closest to the firewall I was able to use a chain vice grip and a 1/2” breaker bar. Will hopefully be done with this Thursday so I’ll update the forum!

 

Dear god do I hate putting the timing cover back on. Plenty of room but the hardest part is getting that gasket to the upper oil pan to go in correct is the biggest PIA. I will be finishing tomorrow, just have to re-install everything else and then start it up!

 

Finished the job today. No check engine light yet. I’m saying yet because it was taking a while to come on previously 😂 I held the gas pedal and brake and started it up 4 times to get the oil flowing. She started right up, performed the intake control relearn and test drove it. She runs smooth and I’m seeing an increase in gas mpg which may be a good sign? Only time will tell and maybe I’ll be able to get the inspection done, that was due since July 😅 no oil leaks this time.

Exhaust cams are running at 0 degrees at idle and intakes are at -1.0 and -1.5. Prayers I got it this time!

Oh, and this was my THIRD and LAST time I will be opening that timing cover no matter what haha

 

I'm still apart, finally got everything off to get the chain out, and starting to put everything back together. Not looking forward to putting the cover back in, will definitely be a pain. So many dumb little clips and brackets all over just so time consuming anyway we'll see how it goes. I haven't been able to get a specific procedure for the vq35dd and going off the de which is a bit different. I didn't see a mark on the oil pump to match the crank sprocket key to, but relatively sane position (about 11 oclock) with the cam marks at 10 and 2 oclock respectively (as mentioned in anything I've found on the DE). Wishing you luck that your light stays off!

 

 

Awesome pics!

Seeing these makes me want to never buy another chain drive DOHC V6 again. All those plastic guides and tensioners... If you're not able to fix them yourself, it would be a search to find someone to even want to do the job for you for a price that didn't exceed the value of the vehicle.

 

So I’m getting her inspected tomorrow I can’t believe it!! It’s been so long since I’ve seen 8 monitors ready. Will update tomorrow as long as everything goes good!

 

Awesome good luck!

 

Here i am, chains on, rotated a few times to ensure no valves meeting pistons. Cleaning up cover to reinstall tomorrow morning.

View attachment 20034

Good ****!

Here i am, chains on, rotated a few times to ensure no valves meeting pistons. Cleaning up cover to reinstall tomorrow morning.

View attachment 20034

Looks good man! I also have successfully passed inspection. Do a couple of dry runs getting the timing cover in so you can see what you might hit. That’s probably the smartest thing I did haha it went back in without touching a thing!

 

Good ****!

Looks good man! I also have successfully passed inspection. Do a couple of dry runs getting the timing cover in so you can see what you might hit. That’s probably the smartest thing I did haha it went back in without touching a thing!

Yup did that haha but still not great. Got it on though so making progress. Now if i can figure out how to replace these oil seals as instructed without them breaking (unless they are supposed to be split) I'd be happy.

*edit, looks like they are supposed to be split.

 

My left cam chain guide and upper main guide were a bit worn but not too bad. Quite a bit of slack in the main chain though.

 

My old school thought process on using 5w30 as opposed to the recommended 0w20, is the 5w30 would offer more of a film thickness for the chains and guides. Who knows. It might be working against me. LOL Either way, I'm at 100K miles on my 2019 and have been using 5w30 since ~25K miles. Luckily she's still smooth and very quiet. I've been totally nuts about doing my oil changes every 3000-3500 miles.

 

Lake's videos are not the best, but that dude is really good. Fluffy's videos are all fluff IMO LOL. I've not done this job, but you generally remove the cam covers so you have access to rotate the cams to set the timing. You have to remove the intake plenum to gain access to the rear cam cover. You're going to want to remove the cam covers and oil pan anyway to check for and remove any sludge build up.

Hopefully your engine is OK overall. Driving it for ~13K miles with the chain slapping may have sent metal bits all throughout the engine at this point.

 

Lake's videos are not the best, but that dude is really good. I've not done this job, but you generally remove the cam covers so you have access to rotate the cams to set the timing. You have to remove the intake plenum to gain access to the rear cam cover. You're going to want to remove the cam covers and oil pan anyway to remove any sludge build up.

Hopefully your engine is OK overall. Driving it for ~13K miles with the chain slapping may have sent metal bits all throughout the engine at this point.

It has only been about 500 miles where I hear it almost all the time. Prior to this last little while, I only heard it briefly on cold starts in our bitter cold winters. But as it has cooled down now this fall, I am hearing it at every single start, faintly hear it all the time, and it starts/runs rough at times.

I haven't seen any metal in my oil changes, though I assume there is a big magnet in the oil pan like every other vehicle and captures a lot of those. Hopefully I haven't waited too long.

 

I'd try everything I could to leave the a/c system charged. Maybe loosening the a/c compressor will give you enough hard line slack? Hopefully @Bravo64 will enter the chat as he's done this job himself. I just recently caught that video on the 2018 Pathfinder timing job. I'd imagine we'll see more as time goes on.

 

I had the engine out; but we pulled the AC lines. It'd be a giant pain to get the Timing cover off with them in place. If I were doing it in frame, I'd basically want to pull everything off that can come off on that side to give myself as much room to work as possible. That includes the hood.