I have had a poping nose for the longest time and I remember it all started when I replaced the front lower control arms, I loosened the cross member bolts and put a rubber spacer in between to test for a resolution to another problem, when in fact I created a new problem. If those bolts are not torqued to factory spec which is 155ft lbs. then you will experience the issue I had when turning the steering wheel and misdiagnose the entire suspension in the process. Just to save someone else the torment and money I have spent. The repair cost me $0 all i did was set my torque wrench to 160ft lbs. (because of my suspension lift, normally it is 155ft lbs.) and tighten them suckers down, no jack required just a 21mm socket and a torque wrench.
Benjamin Sutherland
Popping noise when turning (solved FINALLY)
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I have another noise I am trying to troubleshoot and I have a hunch that it is something else that isn't torqued down to the right spec. Going to start with the lower control arm bushing bolts as they require 170 ft lbs of torque. That is more than my torque wrench is capable of (max160). Will double check steering rack as well just replaced it. UPDATE: Steering rack bolts are 170 ft lbs as well.
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Noise is back....took out that rubber piece I installed didn't help, maybe if I Gave it red thread locker between the metal on the bushing where the bolt head meets, idk....
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I am having a thought of stiffening the chassis now...I have noticed a difference in a good way in how it accelerates, feels more responsive and not like a rubber band pulling back. Maybe some more solidity and torque dampening. The engine already barely moves though.
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When I say this issue has been resolved I mean the culprit has nearly been discovered, I am still having issues with ride quality.
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My rear motor mount has a vacuum line missing I need to find out where it plugs into, the front motor mount connects to the vacuum pump on the top of the engine, I do not see an additional line or tube that has no tube running into it. Will scour the service manual until I discover it but both the front and rear mounts are hydraulic, I am hypothesizing that the rear mount is not stiffening with the engine revs therefore it bounces around going over bumps will post again on Wednesday when I have time to poke around.
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My axles have been replaced and I had that click noise during take off, I just tightened the axle nuts and it never came back. As for my popping noise I think I'm going to remove the stop guards on the lower control arms and see if that's what's causing that sound there are scratch marks on them, could be the culprit. My control arm angles are different because of the lift. As for my this think clunk noise, I have never in all my infinite wisdom ever replaced the brake shims the shiny things that come with new pads....so maybe it's time I do and see it makes the noise go away. The noise happens when I corner at high speeds on ramp exits, but only happens on one side during the exit ramps and cornering. Small bumpy roads at low speeds cause both sides to do it simultaneously.
Another thing I discovered. The rear engine mounts for the Infiniti QX60 have a vacuum line as well as the front mount....the Pathfinder does not in the diagram...maybe it's a ride quality thing you "pay" for with Infiniti, but the part should fit, same engine and chassis. Also I have no idea how to test these vacuum hydraulic mounts? Any help?
Another thing I discovered. The rear engine mounts for the Infiniti QX60 have a vacuum line as well as the front mount....the Pathfinder does not in the diagram...maybe it's a ride quality thing you "pay" for with Infiniti, but the part should fit, same engine and chassis. Also I have no idea how to test these vacuum hydraulic mounts? Any help?
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I just replaced the front pads and shims with an Akebono set I had, noise is still there . struts are noisy when I bounce the chassis could just be the rubber level spacer creaking. He could the shock absorber in the front be topping or extending out? I need someone to measure how much piston rod they have showing so I can compare since I am lifted higher should the piston be showing more? I measured off of a friends last year to make sure but I swear they measured the same? I need a go pro with a magnet mount so I can record the struts as I'm driving. The strut bearings look squashed...are the springs upside down? I don't know what right looks like lol. Sounds like metal banging around up and down on a rubber band or a hammer banging between two pieces of something.
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Ok so my sway bar links are loose, but when I remove the end links the bar does not move, like at all, even with all my old man strength. I drive without the end links and the noise is still there. Gonna rebuild the struts again with new mounts and bearings, NOT going with Moog this time, gonna try KYB strut mounts and bearings, the bearings appear to have a different design slightly.
I really do not want to rebuild my struts...or I could just live with the noise, I mean the suspension was not designed for all this so...I am at a crossroads. Need opinions please!
I really do not want to rebuild my struts...or I could just live with the noise, I mean the suspension was not designed for all this so...I am at a crossroads. Need opinions please!
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The nuts at the top of my struts are not flanged. would this be the cause of my noise? They have been tightened before the nut sits inside the hole for the piston? but with a flanged bolt would it be the proper way? These were installed by a shop so idk if they even did it right. It did come back with bolts missing around the strut bar...so I wouldnt put it past em to mess this job up.
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303 Posts
I replaced the strut piston rod nut (whatever u want to call it) with the part number from Nissan, I torqued them down super good with my impact. I'm going to hold my breath but that popping noise is fully gone, I turned the steering wheel in reverse and forward numerous times in repetitive fast motion, not a single Pop or stutter, just smooth steering and motion. The nut on the right was what the shop I had install the struts put on....clearly not the Genuine Nissan part on the left not to mention the flange which helps a LOT with keeping the strut rod from jousting around. FYI these nylock nuts are the same part number for the sway bar link nuts, in fact the name is sway bar endlink nut lol. I double checked and the part number was correct.
The thudding or clunk noise on bumps at low speeds is also gone almost completely, now I have a loud THUD on big bumps.....ugh. If it isn't one thing it's another, sigh. I will scour the service manual to see if the install has any specific instructions on torque for these.
The other two pictures are of the New nut installed and what the strut mount looked like without any nut installed.
![15287]( "15287")
![15288]( "15288")
![15286]( "15286")
The thudding or clunk noise on bumps at low speeds is also gone almost completely, now I have a loud THUD on big bumps.....ugh. If it isn't one thing it's another, sigh. I will scour the service manual to see if the install has any specific instructions on torque for these.
The other two pictures are of the New nut installed and what the strut mount looked like without any nut installed.
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Y'all are gonna laugh....so that loud banging noise was my vice grips that were clamped onto the strut....I forgot they were there yesterday when I swapped the nuts lol. Now the suspension is quiet and the car rides hella smooth now, despite it being lifted 4 inches!
Other thoughts:
Now I have no need to put subframe spacers in, if I put them anywhere it would be in the rear to correct camber. But the front is okie dokie. I can squeeze another strut spacer in at the top of the srut now, but I will have to get creative. Subframe spacers decrease ground clearance around the axles so if I can modify the mount bolt for the spring seat and lateral arm in the rear it would bring the camber to a more natural position and I wont have to sacrifice ground clearance for camber correction (not that it currently impacts the performance negatively, the vehicle drives fine with no abnormal tire wear).
I just can't get used to driving this vehicle without experiencing that noise, everytime I turn the wheel I cringe, but yet the noise doesn't happen anymore, it's like paranoia I've been mentally disturbed by that plaguing noise for so long, I almost flinch when I think the noise is about to happen but it doesn't lol.
Other thoughts:
Now I have no need to put subframe spacers in, if I put them anywhere it would be in the rear to correct camber. But the front is okie dokie. I can squeeze another strut spacer in at the top of the srut now, but I will have to get creative. Subframe spacers decrease ground clearance around the axles so if I can modify the mount bolt for the spring seat and lateral arm in the rear it would bring the camber to a more natural position and I wont have to sacrifice ground clearance for camber correction (not that it currently impacts the performance negatively, the vehicle drives fine with no abnormal tire wear).
I just can't get used to driving this vehicle without experiencing that noise, everytime I turn the wheel I cringe, but yet the noise doesn't happen anymore, it's like paranoia I've been mentally disturbed by that plaguing noise for so long, I almost flinch when I think the noise is about to happen but it doesn't lol.
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