[steve80]

Based on what owner's here have experienced, this seems to be how it is. If you shine a bright light into it, I'd be surprised if you can't see metallic glitter in there. These units hold so little gear oil and are in motion and under load any time the wheels are rolling, the gear oil in them takes a beating. Most owners don't know they have a transfer case, let alone the need to change the oil in it regularly.

In 95K miles, I've only drained/refilled the rear diff once on mine. The T-case has been drained/refilled 3x.

this is my first t-case change and i'm at 72,000 KM. only 250ml came out, but i put in 300 ml as recommended

can i use the open bottle of fluid again? i read that you cant do that with open brake fluid.

 

[PoManzPathy]

this is my first t-case change and i'm at 72,000 KM. only 250ml came out, but i put in 300 ml as recommended

can i use the open bottle of fluid again? i read that you cant do that with open brake fluid.

I wouldn't hesitate to use an open bottle of gear oil provided the cap was kept on it. 72000 km is ~45K miles, so that's not horribly long on the factory gear oil that being the case. Mine was black and glittery at ~36K miles.

 

[jbabin87]

I want to just top off for a trip I'm taking tomorrow.. got a leak and will need to do a reseal but trying to buy time.

If I just pop the fill plug, is it safe to fill until it leaks out, or would that over fill it?

 

[PoManzPathy]

I want to just top off for a trip I'm taking tomorrow.. got a leak and will need to do a reseal but trying to buy time.

If I just pop the fill plug, is it safe to fill until it leaks out, or would that over fill it?

You could, but keep in mind the unit only holds a fraction of a quart, so any leak is too much. It's also not fun to fill without a lift. You'll need a piece of tubing to attach to the nozzle on the oil bottle, to be able to reach the fill / level check power.

As you said, that's how you fill / level check them. Keep adding oil until it starts to drip out

 

[UpRockCreek53]

@PoManzPathy assuming there is no crush washer with any of the plugs? Few videos I found on this don't mention any or new plugs (which looks like they come with some factory thread sealant). I'm pretty far off from doing this on our R53; just trying to get some info now.

 

[PoManzPathy]

@PoManzPathy assuming there is no crush washer with any of the plugs? Few videos I found on this don't mention any or new plugs (which looks like they come with some factory thread sealant). I'm pretty far off from doing this on our R53; just trying to get some info now.

I'll have to poke around for pics I took for my R52, but I want to say there was copper or possibly an aluminum washer. I haven't changed them.

 

[eruby]

I recently changed my T-Case and Rear Diff oil and neither had a washer. Nor did the filler plugs. This was the 1st change at 50K miles.

 

[2020Fathpinder]

While doing an engine oil change and tire rotation on my 2019 Pathfinder today, I got a good look at the transfer case. I've seen a few threads on t-case issues here, but no advice on changing out the 75w90 GL5 gear oil in them. Given the tiny ~3/4qt capacity and the fact they're packed next to a catalytic converter makes me feel like that little bit of oil gets worked hard.

The 10mm hex drain plug is simple to get to, but the fill / level check plug took a foot long extension snaked above the subframe to be able to even reach the fill plug. Then you've got to rig up a means to pump fluid in, or route tubing down from the engine bay and fill it IV style. You could probably shove a piece of tubing on the gear oil bottle nipple and get it in that way, but probably only like half the bottle.

Just looking for experiences here.

Could you explain how you do your tire rotations please? Thanks.

 

[KTooTall13]

Could you explain how you do your tire rotations please? Thanks.

Cross the front tires to the rear(Left Front to Right Rear and Right Front to Left Rear). Move the rear tires straight to the front(Left Rear to Left Front and Right Rear to Right Front). This is the best method for making sure every tire ends up in every position overtime and will give you an even tire wear. This also assumes you are running non directional tires.

 

[2020Fathpinder]

Cross the front tires to the rear(Left Front to Right Rear and Right Front to Left Rear). Move the rear tires straight to the front(Left Rear to Left Front and Right Rear to Right Front). This is the best method for making sure every tire ends up in every position overtime and will give you an even tire wear. This also assumes you are running on directional tires.

I saw the diagram on the owners manual but what I guess I am asking is how to actually do the tire rotation without a lift or hydraulic jack (only the jack that comes with the vehicle). I don't know what method pomanz uses to elevate the car. I have two pairs of jack stands and only the hand operated jack the comes with the car.

 

[UpRockCreek53]

I saw the diagram on the owners manual but what I guess I am asking is how to actually do the tire rotation without a lift or hydraulic jack (only the jack that comes with the vehicle). I don't know what method pomanz uses to elevate the car. I have two pairs of jack stands and only the hand operated jack the comes with the car.

What you'd have to do is raise each side individually at pinch welds and place a jack stand under some crossmember or solid component. You'd need 4 jack stands to do it safely though. For cars without a single front or rear jack point, it's a pain.

Many trucks for example have a center jack point you can get both front or rear wheels off the ground making it easier. No such luck (typically) on unibody cars.

If you have Sam's, Costco or one of the bigger tire chain stores, just buy their lifetime tire package. Some of them even cover patching if you catch a nail. It's around $40 at Sam's club and they rotate and balance each time. Totally worth it not having to get creative about jacking each side and where to place the stands.

 

[KTooTall13]

I saw the diagram on the owners manual but what I guess I am asking is how to actually do the tire rotation without a lift or hydraulic jack (only the jack that comes with the vehicle). I don't know what method pomanz uses to elevate the car. I have two pairs of jack stands and only the hand operated jack the comes with the car.

Those jacks that come with the vehicle are for emergency purposes only. I'd never recommend anyone use them for regular maintenance. Go get a jack, places like Harbor Freight have them cheap. Alot safer than trying to rotate your tires using the emergency jack.

 

[2020Fathpinder]

Those jacks that come with the vehicle are for emergency purposes only. I'd never recommend anyone use them for regular maintenance. Go get a jack, places like Harbor Freight have them cheap. Alot safer than trying to rotate your tires using the emergency jack.

I'll check out my local harbor freight.

 

[MarkW]

Do you guys to put drive the PF up on two front ramps to change out the transfer case fluid? I can't fit under the vehicle otherwise to get to the transfer case area.

 

[2020Fathpinder]

Do you guys to put drive the PF up on two front ramps to change out the transfer case fluid? I can't fit under the vehicle otherwise to get to the transfer case area.

I saw one video of a guy using ramps to do this. However, the fluid level is set only if the car is parallel with the ground on a flat surface. Most people use a floor jack and jack stands placed at the pinch welds.

This video seems like a thorough tutorial

There are lift points for a floor jack in the middle of the front and rear subframes.

 

[PoManzPathy]

Do you guys to put drive the PF up on two front ramps to change out the transfer case fluid? I can't fit under the vehicle otherwise to get to the transfer case area.

You pretty much have to get the front of the vehicle lifted at a minimum to gain access to the plugs. You can lower the vehicle to do the drain and rig up hose like I did to refill with all 4 wheels on the ground.

I no longer own my 2019 pathfinder, but I can tell you, the transfer case oil change is so much easier on the 2021 Chevy Traverse that replaced it.

 

[MarkW]

I just put it up on to the ramps for easier access. Drained it and got about 290 ml out. I weighed the full bottle of new oil and then using the density (0.895 g/ml)of the 80w-90 oil I figured how may grams of new oil it would take to put 290ml+- back in. I did my own calcs on the weight of what I got out and it was around 0.77 g/ml. Anyway, I started replacing the oil and stopped and measured the weight of the bottle as I went along. As I got right up to the weight difference of 290 ml of new oil I started to get a little drip out of the fill hole. I let it sit a little and then was able to add a little more. By weight I figure I used about 300 ml in and accounting for a little loss in the tube, it was close enough to 290ml. I'll drive it around a little and then may check the fill port to see if anything flows out once level to make sure it isn't overfilled. Wasn't too bad to empty the transfer case but was a pain to fill. The old old was black.

 

[KTooTall13]

I just put it up on to the ramps for easier access. Drained it and got about 290 ml out. I weighed the full bottle of new oil and then using the density (0.895 g/ml)of the 80w-90 oil I figured how may grams of new oil it would take to put 290ml+- back in. I did my own calcs on the weight of what I got out and it was around 0.77 g/ml. Anyway, I started replacing the oil and stopped and measured the weight of the bottle as I went along. As I got right up to the weight difference of 290 ml of new oil I started to get a little drip out of the fill hole. I let it sit a little and then was able to add a little more. By weight I figure I used about 300 ml in and accounting for a little loss in the tube, it was close enough to 290ml. I'll drive it around a little and then may check the fill port to see if anything flows out once level to make sure it isn't overfilled. Wasn't too bad to empty the transfer case but was a pain to fill. The old old was black.

Seems very precise. I'm sure your good. As long as you don't have any leaks the level should be correct.

I have an easier suggestion for next time though. Drain the old fluid into a clear clean container. Mark the level of the old fluid and dump the fluid out. Wipe out the container and pour clean oil in it(up to the mark). Add a little splash of oil to compensate for the small amount that you wont be able to pour/pump out. Pour the clean oil back into an empty quart bottle and pump it in with a hand pump.

 

[2020Fathpinder]

Seems very precise. I'm sure your good. As long as you don't have any leaks the level should be correct.

I have an easier suggestion for next time though. Drain the old fluid into a clear clean container. Mark the level of the old fluid and dump the fluid out. Wipe out the container and pour clean oil in it(up to the mark). Add a little splash of oil to compensate for the small amount that you wont be able to pour/pump out. Pour the clean oil back into an empty quart bottle and pump it in with a hand pump.

Does nissan call for a special level setting procedure? or is it, 'fill until it spills out of the fill hole'?

 

[KTooTall13]

Does nissan call for a special level setting procedure? or is it, 'fill until it spills out of the fill hole'?

You just fill it until oil comes out. As long as your vehicle is level that is.

If your on ramps the vehicle is not level so it's best to measure the amount of fluid that comes out, so you can put the same amount back in.