Have you conducted a search on the forum at all? I believe this is discussed in this thread.

 

I have and it never states if the third row is prewired from factory to add rear speakers. All comments on what they added but not how it was wired. If they used existing ( not used ) 3rd row seat speaker wires or installed a inline output converter using the rear door speakers to install an amp?

 

The wiring diagram for the base audio system indicates it only has the four door speakers and a tweeter up on the dash. Therefore, it is unlikely that they used a 'universal' speaker wiring harness that would work with all three types of audio systems and multiple speakers. Sorry!

You can always remove the trim and see if perhaps the wiring and plugs are back there, but you would have to have the corresponding wires and plugs at the head unit to provide the feed to the back.

 

I'm trying to upgrade audio in my SV, replacing front and rear speakers and adding 3rd row speakers.

Just a heads up, you're in for a bigger project that you might realize. I just finished mine, and the scope (and price) got a little bigger at every turn.

Here are a few threads you might find helpful:

• Upgrade Mid-Level to Bose Audio - Where my adventure started
• 3rd Row Speaker - Specific issue adding speakers to 3rd row location
• Factory Stereo Specs and Upgrade Info - Some general notes and summary info

Does anyone now if wiring for 3rd row speakers is there from dealer?

No wiring, just an empty plastic bracket under the blank panel cover.

Or do I have to add an amp and run wiring all together?

Yes to the wiring, and the amp depends.

Adding an amp is definitely the best way to go. I got a 75x4 JBL amp to run the door speakers, and used the factory amp to run the dash tweeters and the 3rd row speakers I installed. The factory amp is plenty powerful enough for the 4" speakers I installed (or the 3.5" speakers I would recommend).

However I found that the front speakers actually have the 4 ohm 2.25" dash tweeters wired in parallel with the 2 ohm 6x9 door speakers. So (in theory) the amp must be stable at 1.33 ohms. Since there is only one 2 ohm 6" speaker on each reach channel, you could add a 4 ohm 3" speaker to each channel for the 3rd row. These wouldn't be as loud, but if you want speakers in that location without adding an amp, it's an option.

If you do add an amp, there is plenty of room under the 3rd row seat, space which is otherwise completely wasted. I was able to add a line out converter, distribution block, 4-channel amp, and 8" sub in this space. Once you get the storage bin and jack out (and an air duct that is held in with just 2 screws), this space is easy to work in without removing the seat.

I tapped the rear speaker wires just before the harness (where the speaker and door electronics wiring all connects to the insulated channel from the frame to the door). You won't be able to pull a speaker wire through the rear duct (though I was somehow successful running two pairs through each side in the front). There is plenty of space to make the connections in the B pillar, and the wire is easy to work with when the harness is disconnected.

Also for the BOSE system owners, do the 3rd row speakers have a grille or is the speaker cover all part of the finishing trim?

According to my local Nissan dealer, the part should be available separately. The plastic cover in non-Bose models is removed by 4 screws from the rear.

To remove the cover you have to take off the "lower side luggage finisher" (which is one piece on each side between the back door and the liftgate, from just below the window to the floor). Note that removing this single piece requires completely taking out the storage box and 3rd row seats, but you may be able to avoid taking out the seat if your arms are long enough to reach the speaker from the edge of the panel at the liftgate.

It is obvious that this cover has a part number, but the last two digits printed on the part are ** (which my dealer says means they didn't have a full part number assigned at the time of production). Most likely this is the case with the equivalent part on Bose-equipped models as well, and none of the parts documentation lists either part.

Apparently this happens occasionally with brand new models, and my dealer said they escalated the issue, along with my photos of the location and both the Bose and non-Bose parts, to Nissan NA corporate. However I have yet to hear anything back in over two months, so I have pretty much given up hope.

My next step is to see if I can trim the plastic inserts I removed from my Pathfinder and glue a fabric grill over a round cutout to restore a somewhat factory look until I am able to order the OEM speaker covers.

I'm trying to keep my PF look as factory as possible after upgrades? Thanks a bunch guys

Hope this helps some... let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck!

 

WOW!!! Great info, thanks so much, so helpful. That is exactly what I want to do. I bet your system sounds great. So where did you make the connection for the 3rd row speakers ( tapped in to front speaker wires back to head unit or amp) ?

 

I swapped out all four door speakers, so I had to take the panels off anyway.


For the front I fed two pairs of 16 gauge speaker wire through the opening where the speaker goes, through the conduit from the door to the frame, fished them out from the inside and pulled enough slack through to reach the 3rd row. I then cut the factory wire right at the speaker in each of the front doors, splicing the factory leads to one pair and connecting the other to my new speakers (Kappa 693.9s), and mounted the new speakers in the factory location.


In the rear, I intended to do the same as the front, but discovered that I was unable to push the speaker wire through the conduit, as it is shrink-fitted to the harness connector on the interior side. Hence cutting the wires just before the interior connector for the door wiring harness. From this point I spliced one pair of speaker wire to the factory leads and the other to the wire going through the harness to the speaker (which I swapped out for Kappa 652.9s--but I would recommend the 62.9 instead).


This does leave me with amplified signal running through the harness connector and about 1.5' of 22 gauge factory speaker wire, but it was the only way without cutting the conduit between the frame and the door. I figure I am only pushing the amp about 25% of its 75 watts per channel (trying not to overpower the 4 speakers connected to the factory amp) so it shouldn't be a big issue.


After pulling all 4 pairs of wires under the 3rd row seat, I spliced the wire from the rear speaker to the newly installed 3rd row speakers before connecting all 4 channels into a line out converter. (Don't cheap out here--the $30 one sounds infinitely better than the $12 unit I tried first.) At this point I checked the polarity of my signal wires with a multimeter to ensure they were connected correctly, and used a battery to verify the polarity of the wires going to the speakers.


The only other wire I had to pull was a power wire from the battery, which runs high along the driver's side through the engine compartment, up between the lip of the windshield and the quarter panel, down beside the driver's side door hinge (visible for about 3"), through a hole into the fuse area, and then down under the door sills. I used an 8 gauge power wire, which seems to work fine for my little 300 watt amp and 200 watt amplified sub (remember I'm not pushing them very hard).


There is a TON of wire under the seat, but I was able to use cable ties to hold it under and get the air duct, jack, and storage bin back in place. Everything is snug enough that I didn't even bother securing it. And once I put the trim pieces back on, you really can't tell that anything isn't factory--until you crank up the radio! (Well, except for the pesky 3rd row speakers that are in plain sight until Nissan finishes indexing their parts catalog.)

 

Wow amazing reply and detailed explanation. I'm assuming you also ran a remote 12v accessory wire so your amp doesn't stay on continuously? A couple of little things if you can point out please, So the line output converter was connected to what speaker wires coming from the head unit? Rear or front? So your 3rd row speakers are directly connected to......? What did you use to power the sub, a second amp?Sorry if I am asking too many things I just don't want to mess anything up in my new vehicle...and your setup is exactly what I was thinking of doing....thanks again.

 

I'm assuming you also ran a remote 12v accessory wire so your amp doesn't stay on continuously?

The line out converter has a sensor that turns on a remote wire when it's receiving an audio signal. I had planned to use the auto-sensing inputs on the amp (both have them--seems to be a standard feature now), but there was a long delay on the JBL. Since the line out converter is powered (connected to same distribution block as both amps) there is no delay.

So the line output converter was connected to what speaker wires coming from the head unit? Rear or front?

It's a 4 channel converter (I wanted to retain fade/pan control) so it has four pairs of speaker level inputs and 4 RCA outputs. All four door speakers have two pairs of speaker wire running between the door and the 3rd row seat... one carries signal from the factory head unit amp to the LOC and the other carries the amplifier's output back to the speaker.

So your 3rd row speakers are directly connected to......?

Directly connected to the wires from the factory head unit that formerly powered the rear door speakers. These wires are split to also carry the rear L/R channel signal into the LOC.

What did you use to power the sub, a second amp?

The sub is an all-in-one amplified woofer combo unit. It's about 3" high, 12" deep, and 16" wide. That space encloses both the 8" woofer and its amp. The power wire is connected to a 4-way power block that powers the speaker amp, amplified sub, and LOC.

 

Thanks so much for all the info. I've been scratching my head over and over again on how to do this and you have solved all my issues and answered all my questions in no time. Thanks again, now its just saving enough money to buy everything.

 

I will be looking for the grill covers for the 3rd row speakers if I find any info out I will share with you and vice versa.