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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my 2014 PF at the dealer for an oil change service last week, and they told me that the subframe bushings are torn. The quote to replace is $4600!

The car has 30,000 miles, but the 36 month warranty period is up, and no extended warranty. Once the service tech knew I didn't have any extended warranty, he told me that it wasn't critical to fix, and that the car was still drivable and safe.

Has anyone else had any problem like this? Honestly, it seems kinda fishy to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Didn't see any pictures.... good point. Next time I get it serviced I'll ask for pictures.

Thanks,
 

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Have you noticed any symptoms of such?
I have a ‘14 PF that has had a “clunk” in the rear suspension since I bought it. The dealer “couldn’t reproduce” the sound and said everything looked good back in March when I took it in to have the transmission computer reprogram recall done. I’m out of warranty now, and am still irked by the noise.
 

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Wow - what a coincidence...

I have the same year 2014 SV model (4WD) with about the same mileage. I bought it used in April last year - and it came from the east coast.

I live in Arizona

I took mine into the dealer on 12/28 and they told me the same thing!
Bushings were worn out
Subframe needed to be replaced
Approximately $4200 in repairs

Thankfully I had bought an aftermarket warranty that is covering all the parts and labor. It is still in the shop since 12/28 and I should be picking it up hopefully today. The warranty company is also covering the rental car they gave me - for nearly 2 weeks... Just this one fix alone made buying the extended warranty worth it...!
 

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Yeah the subframes on these things are trash i'm just going to redesign but I have other problems that are exacerbated because my 4 inch lift. I added a slice of rubber in between my subframe bushing and the outer part of the bolt, didnt help.
 

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2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4
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I wonder if anyone besides those with extended warranties gave a dealer service department the 'go-ahead' on a ~$5000 front sub-frame replacement job!! Good grief!

As far as I know every one of the bushings is replaceable on the sub-frame. It still wouldn't be an inexpensive shop job, but shouldn't be but a fraction of the ~$4600.

If this was some type of critical thing that must be done, that would be my last day of owning my PF given I'm too old to do this in my driveway/garage myself.
 

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The front and rear bushings are the same. Looked them up from Febest, and a Google search. But the labor to remove the frame...ouch my wallet cringes.
 

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15217

This is just an example from a Ford but the concept is the same, if I have stripped the welded nut or whatever is on the inside of the vehicle body that connects the subframe to vehicles unibody, then this is what I am looking at having to do...not pretty. It's going to cost me $131 in parts for new bushings plus the headache of replacement procedure. Can someone confirm if there is an interior access to the inside of the nut for the front subframe bolts? Just peel back the carpet and look around, should be a very large nut, 19mm.
 

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And this happened by over-torquing?
Probably, who knows? going to inspect bushings today, if I'm correct then I will know when putting the bolts back in. Best case scenario I just need new bolts because the old ones are stretched out and about to snap, gonna try blue thread locker. But first I'm gonna check the torque on them and see if they are loose again, I swear the one on the passenger side is slipping...
 

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Had my 2014 PF at the dealer for an oil change service last week, and they told me that the subframe bushings are torn. The quote to replace is $4600!

The car has 30,000 miles, but the 36 month warranty period is up, and no extended warranty. Once the service tech knew I didn't have any extended warranty, he told me that it wasn't critical to fix, and that the car was still drivable and safe.

Has anyone else had any problem like this? Honestly, it seems kinda fishy to me.
Replacing the bushings according to Nissan means replacing the entire subframe, there is only one company that makes the bushings
 

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And this happened by over-torquing?
I do know that the passenger side is where most of the popping noise is and I'm willing to bet that the subframe bushings are the culprit of my noisy suspension...there no other bushings left to replace lol. I've replaced sway links, sway bar bushings, front lower control arms, torque arm (upper). Need to check my front vacuum line on the hydraulic mount in the front according to the diagram there is a vacuum pump for it, I could sworn I saw mine disconnected...

Struts and mounts and bearings have been replaced, wheel bearings have been replaced...the only thing that made the car ride smoother was simply tightening those frame bolts. The vibrations I felt through the steering wheel have gone down significantly since tightening but the popping is still there on the one side. Even if it's stripped and I have access to the Threaded side of the frame insert, I can still jimmy a fix without damaging the body. I just hope it's a stretched bolt that keeps making the frame loose.
 

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15224

These are the new bolts from Nissan, I found a picture on ebay. These look coated in red thread locker...please someone confirm this for me. Also look at the design of the bolt in the middle, are these bolts single use?
 

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yeah and I read the diagrams wrong....sigh i was reading Nm not ft-lb so... yeah they are definitely overtorqued.

Yet another finding in the service manual, the steering rack nuts are one time use, but not the bolts, yet the subframe bolts are not single use...
 

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NAB-328 Front 2 Bushings for front subframe (Near bullbar mounts on front subframe) 54400-JA00A — SUBFRAME FRONT BUSHING - Febest #NAB-328 - One Year Warranty‏
NAB-329 Rear 2 Bushings for front subframe (Near lower control arms in front suspension) 54400-JC20A — SUBFRAME REAR BUSHING - Febest #NAB-329 - One Year Warranty‏

I have ordered parts, gonna need a lotta lithium grease and rubber mallet pounding, I have used presses before and failed horribly but using a long bolt and the fact they are held in place when put between the frame they should just bang right in there without fully dropping the entire frame, at least for the ones I inspected. The rubber center was spinning around while tightening they are doneskies and I will confidently say that is what is making my clunk noise and vibrations while driving. Never inspected the front ones but...I will replace them all at the same time so I can get the process right for anyone who believes it is [email protected]#% that $4500 for a new sub frame is the solution (yeah you Nissan).
15225
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The rubber nipples should be higher and you can clearly see the torn rubber they almost spin in a circle, not enough material to dampen anymore.
 

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Also Jman that whole stripped nut theory I had, not the case, that sucker was tight as hell, still gonna put red threadlocker on it though after replacing bushings. The bolts are not stretched. Another thing to note the width of my bolts are the same all the way down, the ones I found on ebay that match the nissan part numbers for my pathy...are not they are narrow in the middle but likely are the same at the ends, I like my original bolts better :)
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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Check the markings on the bolt's head, the one from eBay is not common. You definitely want to replace the bolts, there is most likely some rust on those threads already and the last thing you want is one of them snapping when you hit a pothole at high speed. Those should be grade 5 or 8.
I believe you are the first person to lift a PF and to replace these bushings (by yourself) so I doubt anyone here can help you out in this process. You have your suspension and drive train components working at different angles than what they were designed for so the noises you are experiencing could come from any of these parts. If I were you I'd spend more time trying to identify the source before spending more money, I believe the steering rack didn't really need replacing, right?
 

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I'm just trying to figure out WHY there would be so much movement between the subframe and body that these bushing would tear like that. Engine mounts should soak up engine movement. Control arms should handle suspension movement. Do the bodies flex THAT much on 2013+ PFs?

I wonder if shooting the bushings with an all natural product like Fluid Film or Woolwax would keep them soft and flexible over time? I blasted mine with my Fluid Film kit some months ago.
 
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