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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 Pf.

Have noticed a slight noise (a "clicking" kind of sound) when driving. The noise is evident when coming off the gas (eg approaching a Red Light Signal) and its evident again when getting back on the gas.

Any ideas what this could be?
 

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2013 Pathfinder SL, Connecticut, USA
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Where does the clicking seem to be coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where does the clicking seem to be coming from?
TBH I am not entirely sure. It could be coming from around the throttle pedal or pedalbox.

When approaching lights and taking off again, I rested my hand on gear shift looking for a corresponding vibration, judder or slight "thump" or something similar. Nothing.

Thanks for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Where does the clicking seem to be coming from?
Having just returned from using the Pf, I have decided the noise sounds like an electrical switch clicking as it engages and disengages.

Does this make any sense?

🤔
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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AC compressor?
Open the hood and watch the clutch engage/disengage to see if that follows the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AC compressor?
Open the hood and watch the clutch engage/disengage to see if that follows the noise.
Thanks for this advice.

I would like to try it however given I have no idea what I'm looking for (only "clutch" I am familiar with is manual trans (stickshift).

Thank you anyway for yiur advice. Appreciated🙂
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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No worries, I like when people ask about what they do not know.

Here, skip to 2:28. This video was taken from inside the passenger wheel well but you should be able to see the AC compressor from the top of the engine, passenger side, towards the front.


The wheel spinning on the right is the AC compressor. There is a pulley driven by a belt, which is always spinning. The front plate on the pulley is the clutch. There is a magnet built inside the pulley that pulls the clutch in causing it to engage and move the compressor. At 2:40 you can see the clutch stopping while the pulley keeps spinning and at 2:50 you see it engage again.
The compressor cycles all the time when the AC is ON to regulate the cabin's temperature. The clutch will disengage when the evaporator (cooling coil inside the cabin) is cold enough or when the compressor builds too much pressure. This action produces a clicking sound.
Having the cabin ventilation system set to defrost will also cause the compressor to cycle, even with the AC off.

Hope this helps.
 

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There is a bulletin that addresses this noise by applying grease to where the axles go into the hub.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is a bulletin that addresses this noise by applying grease to where the axles go into the hub.

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Thanks.

Whats a "bulletin"? Was there a recall or will I be paying the bill?😔
 

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It's just a document that oems release to direct technicians to problems that could be difficult to diagnose or common things where it is basically saying to start here.

It's not a recall, so $$ depends on if you still have warranty coverage

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's just a document that oems release to direct technicians to problems that could be difficult to diagnose or common things where it is basically saying to start here.

It's not a recall, so $$ depends on if you still have warranty coverage

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Thank you again. The vehicle is covered by a warranty however, in my experience they are often not worth the paper......

Any ideas of the Man Hour Rate for this job? Back home in Scotland a Job Completion Rate ie the time the manu determines it should take to do a job, is established by manu for a job. To arrive at cost its Dealership Hourly Rate x Job Completion Time.
 

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I'd say a half hour is common and fair for it.

You reproduce the complaint (hopefully), put the car in the air, address the concern first, do basic look over, top off fluids, check tire pressure, document findings and pass recommendations on to the service writer or parts for quotes. Then wait to hear what the customer wants to do. Adjust the backing plates, drive it to confirm it's fixed, close the repair order and pull the car around.

I'd say I've earned a half hour of pay for that.

There are probably a lot of videos on how to do it yourself if you search scraping backing plate. It'll be obvious once you see a video of what it's doing.

I usually just crank the wheel all the way in one direction, get a long screwdriver or pry bar, get down behind the wheel and bend it back a little. Turn the wheel all the way in the other direction to get access to the other side of the plate. You can do all of this in your driveway without a jack.



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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'd say a half hour is common and fair for it.

You reproduce the complaint (hopefully), put the car in the air, address the concern first, do basic look over, top off fluids, check tire pressure, document findings and pass recommendations on to the service writer or parts for quotes. Then wait to hear what the customer wants to do. Adjust the backing plates, drive it to confirm it's fixed, close the repair order and pull the car around.

I'd say I've earned a half hour of pay for that.

There are probably a lot of videos on how to do it yourself if you search scraping backing plate. It'll be obvious once you see a video of what it's doing.

I usually just crank the wheel all the way in one direction, get a long screwdriver or pry bar, get down behind the wheel and bend it back a little. Turn the wheel all the way in the other direction to get access to the other side of the plate. You can do all of this in your driveway without a jack.



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Been at dealership 2 hours for oil change and to identify and rectify the "clicking" problem....still unable to identify the problem, could be another 1.5 hours🙄
 

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You can tell them that a tech mentioned ntb12-055g and you wondered if that applied to your situation.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can tell them that a tech mentioned ntb12-055g and you wondered if that applied to your situation.

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So, after 3.5 hours I am told passenger side axel and CV Boot need replacing. Wow! In all my years I have never replaced an axel! When I first went to Service Desk I mentioned about the axel and hub. I wnder if they began there in the search for the problem? Then I'm told it will not be fixed today.....it was at that point I went full-on GLASGOW! Made it clear that it was unacceptable to take 3.5 hours just to diagnose the problem and let the Service guy know the mech, taking this amount of time, would not last 2 shifts in the job if it were Scotland. The response was there is a "process" to follow to get the correct diagnosis. Thats understood, given they were told at the start what the issue MAY be, why did it take 3.5 hours?! He recognised I was not happy and did not charge me for oil and filter.

Thanks for your guidance, Didnt get the chance to mention ntb12-055g. I will want to see and yake away with me the old parts when they are removed
 

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I'd ask to see it now if possible. There are probably a pile of torn boot axles in the corner. Not that I think someone would be a snake about it, but we bring customers out to the shop all the time to show the findings. I'd expect to see a torn axle boot. No reason to replace the boot if it's not torn.

Noises can be very hard. I've gotten my butt kicked by them a ton of times. Reproducing it in a way where someone cna put their hand on a part or see something moving can be a real challenge sometimes. Axles can be particularly tricky, but a torn boot should be fairly obvious with grease thrown all over under there.

Maybe they were short staffed and got backed up? Who knows.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'd ask to see it now if possible. There are probably a pile of torn boot axles in the corner. Not that I think someone would be a snake about it, but we bring customers out to the shop all the time to show the findings. I'd expect to see a torn axle boot. No reason to replace the boot if it's not torn.

Noises can be very hard. I've gotten my butt kicked by them a ton of times. Reproducing it in a way where someone cna put their hand on a part or see something moving can be a real challenge sometimes. Axles can be particularly tricky, but a torn boot should be fairly obvious with grease thrown all over under there.

Maybe they were short staffed and got backed up? Who knows.

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Thanks again for your input. It is most appreciated.

When at the Dealership yesterday I was advised the CV Boot and Axle (both passenger side) required replacement.

Apparently my Warranty does not cover this. Looking at the policy documents the policy covers "Axle Shafts" I am unsure if this is the same thing as was quoted to me ("Axle" - I would consider an Axle to be something like a Beam Axle (similar , dont know if 2013 Pf has that at the front)? I have looked over the internet and found THIS I am unsure if this is the correct part. If it is, maybe its a driveshaft which is requiring to be replaced? In UK the front "Axle" may not be labelled as such. However the individual components eg drive shafts, Wishbones etc would be mentioned. Is the front Drive Shaft and the Axle (at the front passenger side) the same thing? I have been contacted by the H Greg Customer Service Manager who, after a long chat, is going to look in to what is going on and what work/replacements actually needs doing. I have also asked for the estimated cost to make the repairs quoted yesterday by her Service Dept to be made available to me.

"Separated by a common language" lol

Grateful for any further assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The plot thickens! I just had the Customer Service Manager back on to me. She advises the issues are Control Arms (not "Axles" as I was initially told). In addition she advises the paperwork reads there are CRACKS on the Control Arm! That to me is a major, major safety issue!! Nothing was said yesterday by the guy at the Service Desk. Not a word. I find all this rather shocking not to mention, worrying.

I await an email with the paperwork....oh and the dealership want $3300 to repair....OUCH!
 

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I imagine they are saying the bushings are cracked, which can definitely be tough to pin to a noise.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I imagine they are saying the bushings are cracked, which can definitely be tough to pin to a noise.

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I have now received an email note of the items the dealership considers need replacing.

The items quoted for are #54501-3JA5E Link Comp 554 $382.28, #54500 - 3JA5E Link Comp 554 $382.28 and #39101-3JA0A Shaft Assembly $513.98. Total cost for parts is $1,278.54. This leaves a balance on the earlier provided Estimate ( #3,300) of $2,021.46 I do not know the hourly rates for dealerships here but it seems excessive! Is this a 1 day job or maybe 2 days?

I am surprised that I was specifically told when I specifically asked which side was the issue, and was told the Passenger side. I do not understand why 2 x Control Arm is required? Is it standard practice in US to fit Control Arms in pairs, Left and Right? For a more complete picture, I have attached the document received.

I now seem to have more questions than answers....maybe I am misreading this??


Est from Delray (2).jpg
 
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