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2013 Pathfinder SL AWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Recently had my cvt and lower control arms replaced (from my other thread) and having been driving a few weeks locally, not many miles. Yesterday I started hearing a clunking noise from the front end when slowly driving and turning corners, both on the left and right turns.

I looked at the visable suspension components with the wheels on and steering wheel turned all the way to the right and left on both sides and found that I can grab the sway bar where it connects to the links and easily push and pull the entire bar side to side! I then got under and grabbed the bar in the middle and moved it side to side with ease.

I can't imagine this is normal and think it is the source of the clunk /pop noise.

I know there have been some threads on the sway bar bushings being bad and noisy but need to know if the bar should move at all from side to side at all and also the links I can wiggle with my thumb and index finger like I'm rolling a cigar.

What's up with this?!

G
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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It should not move that easily, bushings must be worn. Links should be a bit harder to turn, like using the whole hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It should not move that easily, bushings must be worn. Links should be a bit harder to turn, like using the whole hand.
It should not move that easily, bushings must be worn. Links should be a bit harder to turn, like using the whole hand.
That's what I thought and it definitely would be causing the noise I have. Just wanted to get a consensus from the experts here before blasting the dealer for their negligence.

So sway bar bushing and all links should be replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update:

Dealer says the sway bar is a "floating sway bar" and is meant to move side to side to a degree they say the links are fine as well and that they compared my vehicle to another one with some age, along with a new pathfinder. Does anyone buy this explanation? They also could not hear or find the source of the clunk/pop after being there all day, whichnis comical when it did it for me many times on the drive over there. An idiot can hear it.

Anyway, they suggest replacing the sway bar bushings for $100 and they will look again to "duplicate" my concern at the same time.

What should I do here and does any of this make sense? Just really over this crap already.

Thanks to all
G
 

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That's what I thought and it definitely would be causing the noise I have. Just wanted to get a consensus from the experts here before blasting the dealer for their negligence.

So sway bar bushing and all links should be replaced?
these are the bushings you will replace, very easy to do and yes the bushings should be replaced and if all that excess movement has shot the links then replace those too but replace the bushings first they are cheaper and definitely causing the bar to be loose.
 

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Update:

Dealer says the sway bar is a "floating sway bar" and is meant to move side to side to a degree they say the links are fine as well and that they compared my vehicle to another one with some age, along with a new pathfinder. Does anyone buy this explanation? They also could not hear or find the source of the clunk/pop after being there all day, which is comical when it did it for me many times on the drive over there. An idiot can hear it.

Anyway, they suggest replacing the sway bar bushings for $100 and they will look again to "duplicate" my concern at the same time.

What should I do here and does any of this make sense? Just really over this crap already.

Thanks to all
G
sway bar should not be moving at all...thats horsecrap the bushings are like $10 online and im telling you they are easy to replace by yourself if you know where they are at, its 4 bolts and only two of them have to be completely removed the other two loosened. Also the vehicle must not be jacked up at all or there will be pressure on the links and the bar, this replacement is done as the car sits normally.

tell them to grab a new one off the lot and try to move it I guarantee that it will have zero movement!
 

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If you really want help to do it yourself I can make a video on the procedure, I have completely disassembled my entire suspension and put it together multiple times, I have experience at finding noises in this vehicle lol.

On second thought a service lift would be nice, mine has a suspension lift so its easy to crawl underneath, you on the other hand may experience frustrating positions to get at the bolts.
 

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2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4
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Even if there is stabilizer bar movement, if the end links are good and the bushings are there, I don't think this is the cause of the clunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Benjamin, thank you for the confirm that there should be zero movement in the sway bar with tires on the ground. I literally can reach behind the front wheel grab the bar and push/pull it several inches side to side with my hand. I hear a clunk when it reaches the end of travel on both sides. A video would be extremely helpful to all and a slap in the face to stealerships trying to price gouge such a simple and cheap fix to people who have no clue. I am very capable of replacing simple things mechanically by looking and figuring it out if there is no manual or instructions, but a video is icing for for us all who love to learn by watching. I can just drive the front up on some ramps for ground clearance. It's very impressive the capabilitied you have and work you have done. I would not attempt all of that myself!

Jman, exactly right. Something is not kosher here and I wont stand for their nonsense. I called them out on them their "tech" being basically an idiot who didnt pass diagnosis 101 and was told they are the shop foreman. Lmao. A shop foreman who cant clearly hear a loud clunk a million times driving for 5 minutes on purpose or perhaps he is dead I dont know. Whatever the case or cause of this noise better be found and fixed as this happened right after they did the cvt replacement.

PMP, you dont think this clunk while turning around corners is bushing related? Do you think it is an under torqued subframe?
Stay tuned!
G
 

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Benjamin, thank you for the confirm that there should be zero movement in the sway bar with tires on the ground. I literally can reach behind the front wheel grab the bar and push/pull it several inches side to side with my hand. I hear a clunk when it reaches the end of travel on both sides. A video would be extremely helpful to all and a slap in the face to stealerships trying to price gouge such a simple and cheap fix to people who have no clue. I am very capable of replacing simple things mechanically by looking and figuring it out if there is no manual or instructions, but a video is icing for for us all who love to learn by watching. I can just drive the front up on some ramps for ground clearance. It's very impressive the capabilitied you have and work you have done. I would not attempt all of that myself!

Jman, exactly right. Something is not kosher here and I wont stand for their nonsense. I called them out on them their "tech" being basically an idiot who didnt pass diagnosis 101 and was told they are the shop foreman. Lmao. A shop foreman who cant clearly hear a loud clunk a million times driving for 5 minutes on purpose or perhaps he is dead I dont know. Whatever the case or cause of this noise better be found and fixed as this happened right after they did the cvt replacement.

PMP, you dont think this clunk while turning around corners is bushing related? Do you think it is an under torqued subframe?
Stay tuned!
G
I will make a video today when daylight hits, also what you move with your hand may seem like small movement but the noise it makes is magnified by the sheer power of this machine going down the road. The suspension is designed by a computer so that all point have even stress and that one component that's loose can damage others if left unchecked, that's why others have suggested the links being replaced as well. I actually have some photos of my subframe removed which should give you an idea of where the bolts are at. I will post shortly.
 

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You do not have to remove your frame to do this lol. This is just to give you a better view of where the bolts are at. With the right ratchet attachments you should be able to get at the bolts. The frame is upside down in the picture, the bolts visible here are the rear bolts which have to be completely removed. The ones not visible are on the other side of the bracket the bolt hole is u-shaped so just loosen them enough to slide the bracket off, then remove the rubber bushing which has a slit in it to open up for removal.

Oh also you have to disconnect the end links to be able to move the bar and get the bushings off. Installation and reassembly are done in reverse do one side at a time. The new bushings should have arrows I believe that show the correct direction to install them in. The brackets also have arrows I believe pointing to the front of the vehicle.

Another note: take caution or not but the factory service manual says not to reuse the endlink nuts they have nylock on the threads so it is recommended to replace anytime they are removed, not necessary but recommended. I will subscribe this thread and respond if you need a video. Good luck!
 

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My pathfinder needs the bushing replacement, can i request for a video on how to replace? And what bushing you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
The sway bushings are very straight forward to replace look at the pic I posted of the subframe removed, you dont need to remove the frame to change the bushings just remove the bushing clamps and unbolt the tie rods, you will need a ratchet with a universal joint on it or a deep well socket. As stated the sway bar should not move at all. If you are 2wd this should be easier as you have no rear drive shaft in the way.

The Moog bushings are fine.

I no longer have my pathfinder but I check in here from time to time as I have a swath of knowledge from a long period of ownership.
 

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Thanks for replying Ben.
I end up only replacing the sway bar link for the reason of lacked of tools and limited time. At this time noise is gone. Hope it will last at least a years.
16152
 

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Thanks for replying Ben.
I end up only replacing the sway bar link for the reason of lacked of tools and limited time. At this time noise is gone. Hope it will last at least a years.
I'm sure it's not related to the clunk, but from your pic, your lower control arm bushing looks cracked. There are rubber rejuvenator products you can spray on them to supposedly slow them from drying out and cracking.
 

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Thanks for replying Ben.
I end up only replacing the sway bar link for the reason of lacked of tools and limited time. At this time noise is gone. Hope it will last at least a years. View attachment 16152
If you didnt replace the sway bushings i can garantee your problem has not been solved. If the bushings dont get replaced you will be replacing the end links again. The bushings will vi rate the endlinks until they will fall apart
 

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If you didnt replace the sway bushings i can garantee your problem has not been solved. If the bushings dont get replaced you will be replacing the end links again. The bushings will vi rate the endlinks until they will fall apart
Thank you Ben.
My bad I missed removing the steering rod . Which part of steering rod I need to remove? And what particular tools you used reaching out that clamp screw?
 

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I'm sure it's not related to the clunk, but from your pic, your lower control arm bushing looks cracked. There are rubber rejuvenator products you can spray on them to supposedly slow them from drying out and cracking.
Thank you. Do you have any recommendations? I don't want to put anything using a rubber friendly spray on that part like silicon. Could be a dirt magnet.
 
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