Nissan Pathfinder Forum banner

21 - 40 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
I fallowed your bleeding procedure same as mine. Ran it this morning only making it a mile driving under 20mph on flat ground it overheated top hose very hot water boiling in radiator and block steam blowing out reservoir . Bottom rad hose warm not hot. I’m thinking bad thermostat or pump will remove thermostat tonight and if need be water pump on Monday. Which direction does the water flow? Lower hose was very pressurized. Can pump be replaced without removing fan and drive belt? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Jman you still with me? I ran it without the thermostat and it still overheated so only thing left is the pump! I hope! Will get it tomorrow! Thanks!
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Hi, running out of ideas here. You had issues BEFORE replacing the pump and you did that because of the minor leak, right?

Let's go back:
  • Do both fans work and run at high speed?
  • Anything blocking the air? Check behind the grille. Have you power washed the radiator and AC condenser to ensure optimal air flow?
  • Is the fan assembly attached how it should be? No gaps between the assembly and radiator?
  • Have you flushed the radiator and engine block? Filling on one end and watching it drain on the other end.
  • Are you 100% sure there isn't a leak? Check the rad for signs of corrosion/built up. Remove it if necessary. A very small leak will keep the system from building the required pressure.
The only other thing I can think of is that your engine timing is off causing it to run hotter, maybe even knocking. You said you had code P1111 and that is related to the timing solenoid... I assume you are using 87 octane fuel, pump some 89 or 91 and see if it makes a difference. I suggest you address this code and then come back to this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
The codes reset when it was running good last week. I’ve flushed the rad and block, no leaks. It doesn’t have electric fans, no obstructions to radiator. I just picked up a new ome pump. Will install this afternoon, after that ? Thanks!
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Is the fan shroud in good condition and in the right position? This is critical for the fan to do its job.
Didn't know the 2001 came with a direct driven fan, have you checked that the fan clutch is good and fan spinning at the right speed?
Isn't there an electric fan at the front for the AC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Fan spins fast and moves a lot of air. No electric fan to be found. That second thermostat is a b to get too, if the water pump doesn’t fix it then I’ll need to dive deeper to the second thermostat. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Hi Jman well I put in the ome water pump I don’t think that is the problem because it’s acting the same as far as the burping and spitting up air and water. Only thing left is that hard to get to secondary heater thermostat, will see if the dealer has it and manifold gasket. 🙃
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
I've always had clogged radiator cores when overheating was the issue where prior owners used sealants & improper antifreeze to water mix. Hard water scales up the cooling system, even the cooling fins have had oil&dirt clogging air flow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Thanks Tejas, I ordered a new radiator this morning will pick it up tomorrow am! I’m thinking the control valve wouldn’t solve the problem!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Hi guys I put the new radiator in and runs fine until I go up hill then overheats although it did cool down when I turned the heat up! I’m thinking shop time to check the codes and that secondary control valve. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
PLEASE let me know what you find is the problem. my 2001 is doing the exact same **** thing! i even removed both thermostats and it still over heats. but when it gets hot, the top hose is really pressurized and hot,. and the bottom just has warm air in it but no hot coolant. the coolant always looks clean, and at an idle it does just fine. its not til i pull out of the driveway and start going down the road or climbing a hill then it acts up. the only difference is that my fan never shuts off. but i dont see why that would cause it to overheat. ive also had someone look at it and do a pressure test and check the water pump and they said it was all good to go. no leaks, no mixing of fluids, no dirty coolant, nothing. so i have bought both OEM thermostats and an OEM rad cap to see if thats the issue, but something tells me its not gonna work. im about ready to push it off a cliff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Hey crash I feel your pain! Same thing here the car runs perfect hot upper hose cool Lower hose mine has a few codes but doesn’t seem to affect its running and has cleared the codes when running right. If you have air then you might try burping the air out of the system. The vent pipe if park on a hill or front end lifted should have coolant pouring out when the air is out of the system. I had to drill out 3” of hard buildup before the water could escape. I keep you posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Air in the system is the problem! I took it to the shop and they had a special pump that got a huge air pocket and now runs fine. It still has a problem Everytime I drive it say four hours it manages to use, leak or swallow a pint of antifreeze. I can’t see a leak, tail pipe is dry and there wasn’t any combustion gasses in the antifreeze test. I’m sure this is how the overheating occurs when the water gets low air replaces water. Can antifreeze find another way out other than the combustion chamber? Thanks
 
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
Top