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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I’ve read so much on this that my head is still spinning! I have a 01 3.5 path le, last year I had same problem I changed water pump, thermostat bled the air out of block and in the end everything was good. This summer it started again and I replaced the thermostat again. Bled the radiator and it’s still overheating or should I say the radiator keeps boiling over into the overflow res. I just noticed that the upper rad hose was solid and hot, the engine doesn’t appear to be very hot and the lower rad hose seemed empty and cool. It sounds like a clogged rad but it appears clean. Help!!!!!
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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Welcome to the forum !

Your system could overheat because of any of the following:
  • bad water pump
  • bad/incorrect thermostat. Thermostats have different temperature ratings, make sure the one you installed is the right one.
  • bad/incorrect radiator cap. Check yours has the right pressure rating.
  • broken components such as hoses, radiator, and/or cabin heater. The system will not be able to build the required pressure, lose coolant and overheat.
  • radiator fans not working or working below the required speed.
  • clogged system. Could be the radiator or any internal cooling channels. Can happen when water is used instead of coolant and rust invades the system.
  • air in the system.
If I were you I'd check all the above, make sure the caps and thermostat are the correct ones. Then inspect the radiator and check for rust spots that could point out a small leak. Remove the lower hose, fill it up and flush it multiple times, that way you can also see how fast it drains. Tighten all hose clamps when done and make sure you purge the system properly, lots of videos on Youtube about this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forum !

Your system could overheat because of any of the following:
  • bad water pump
  • bad/incorrect thermostat. Thermostats have different temperature ratings, make sure the one you installed is the right one.
  • bad/incorrect radiator cap. Check yours has the right pressure rating.
  • broken components such as hoses, radiator, and/or cabin heater. The system will not be able to build the required pressure, lose coolant and overheat.
  • radiator fans not working or working below the required speed.
  • clogged system. Could be the radiator or any internal cooling channels. Can happen when water is used instead of coolant and rust invades the system.
  • air in the system.
If I were you I'd check all the above, make sure the caps and thermostat are the correct ones. Then inspect the radiator and check for rust spots that could point out a small leak. Remove the lower hose, fill it up and flush it multiple times, that way you can also see how fast it drains. Tighten all hose clamps when done and make sure you purge the system properly, lots of videos on Youtube about this.
Thanks Jman I’ve had the car for four years and am second owner, both owners have maintained it well. Antifreeze always green no rust, mechanical fan, Ome radiator cap, radiator, thermostat and overflow cap. I didn’t use a ome water pump. It’s overheating faster started at 50 minutes now down to 10 before it boils. No noticeable leaks the old water pump was leaking from a pin hole. I’ll pressure check the radiator for blockage and antifreeze for combustion gasses tomorrow! Thanks for the welcoming and reply!
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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Did you compare both water pumps before replacing? The impeller and pulley must be the exact same diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Jman I’ve had the car for four years and am second owner, both owners have maintained it well. Antifreeze always green no rust, mechanical fan, Ome radiator cap, radiator, thermostat and overflow cap. I didn’t use a ome water pump. It’s overheating faster started at 50 minutes now down to 10 before it boils. No noticeable leaks the old water pump was leaking from a pin hole. I’ll pressure check the radiator for blockage and antifreeze for combustion gasses tomorrow! Thanks for the welcoming and reply!
Jman I just checked radiator pressure at14 psi it drops 1psi per 8min30sec no visible leaks! I’m going to pull and check the new OEM thermostat. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jman the thermostat was good, compression 150 on all 6, I flushed the radiator and I forced water through the small hose on thermostat housing put it back together filled it slowly burping upper and lower rad hoses so far everything is working correctly and it’s not overheating. 😊
 

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Well it ran great yesterday today it overheated again blowing steam I added about a half gallon of water and it seems back to “normal “. It’s throwing these codes 02 high voltage, Po138 & Po139, DTC severity 2 out of 3 and OEM P 1111. It’s hard to believe because it runs like a top.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn’t compare water pumps there isn’t a pulley it had a gear and ran off the timing chain. The one I replaced was much lighter, never thought about comparing them at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jman yesterday I turned the radiator cap around disconnected the battery the check engine light remained on. Today I droves to town 15 miles stopped for a 90 min massage got in the car engine light is off and it’s running perfect. All this for a radiator cap! It fits tighter one way. Thanks!
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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You mean you were able to turn it even further, tighten it?
If that is the case, your system was not able to build pressure and water was evaporating. Now that it is fixed don't forget to remove the water and add the proper coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it was running perfect but again coming up hill to home it overheated going up and down gaining temp each time until it maxed out and stayed there until I parked it. The engine light came back in when it reached the hot zone on the gauge. It’s still boiling in the radiator and the block seems warm not hot. As it was blowing steam out of the overflow I smacked the radiator cap and it made a click and closed off the escaping steam and all was calm. I saw a YouTube video where a guy put a clear radiator hose on the top hose and used a dye to see if the water pump was working. I’ve never been able while burping the system to get antifreeze to blow out the breather tube, so maybe there’s still air in the block. I may remove the thermostat as well. What do you think?Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The radiator cap seems to be loose in one position and in 180* it fits better. It’s a 100 miles round trip to the dealership. Thanks!
 

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I tried to bleed the air out but the water level keeps rising then it starts boiling and will keep boiling throwing water and steam until the system is dry or at least I turn it off. It took a gallon of water after I turn on and off the engine a half a dozen times. It seems like it has an endless supply of air!
 

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What is the story, why did you replace the water pump? When did the overheating first started?

I bleed the system starting with a cold engine. I fill the rad up and then press all hoses to remove any trapped air. If there is a hose that is higher than the rad cap I'll put the car on ramps.
After filling it I'll start the engine (AC off), I'll top it up continuously if needed and wait until the radiator fans start. The level will drop. At that point I'll top it up one last time and put the cap on, tight.
Then I'll fill up the reservoir to the correct level.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I haven’t replaced the water pump yet had to order it. When I start with a cold engine and burp the system the coolant level rises and after a half an hour it’s will rise real fast then boil out of control.
 
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