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Powered sub add on run a fused 8 or 10 or 12 gauge fused power wire from the battery & same gauge size for the ground but right at the subs mounting spot for the ground to chassis to avoid alternator whine feedback, where you can make it look like oem. Ive been looking at powered subs a while, heard a few but none seemed to compare to the bigger box bulky types, good thing though amps are compact now days to save space an hide better. powered subwoofer at Crutchfield
Thanks, what about sound input for the sub?
 

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I have a 2018 SL w/ navigation and recently decided to upgrade the OEM speakers to aftermarket speakers. Apparently having navigation creates problems when searching for total upgrades so I started with the basics.

I used the PowerBass L2-692T 6" x 9" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the front and the PowerBass L2-652 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the rear. I read to exercise caution on some 6x9's due to the depth hitting the power windows from the back. There weren't too many 2-ohm options available so I went with these on Crutchfield's recommendation. Crutchfield provided the Metra speaker wiring harnesses and the mounting adapters for the 6-1/2"s for no charge with the speakers. The 6x9's were easy and the speaker adapters for the 6.5" just needed the inner tabs removed to fit the speakers properly. The wires for the 6.5" speakers plug into the outside of the OEM speakers, so those speaker wires just needed routed inside the door instead to get to the terminals without drilling any holes in the mounts. All in all, those were easy. The next task was upgrading the 4-ohm dash speakers which are a pain to get the screws in and out and are non-standard speaker sizes. I looked at lots of options, but went with the Powerbass S1S 1-Inch Silk Dome Tweeters to just match the rest of the speakers I purchased. I bought a piece of 3/16 ABS plastic and made some custom mounts for the tweeters by tracing the OEM speakers and using a drill and dremel. There are no speaker wire adapters made for these dash speakers, so I cannibalized the connectors off of the old speakers and made my own adapter to the included tweeter crossover which worked well. I bought a miniature ratchet 90 degree screwdriver to put them back in, but that didn't work any better than the struggle getting them out. I had to use a 10mm socket with some channel locks to turn the screw for the best results on the back ones. Below is a picture of the tweeter in the mount.... not perfect, but fit like a charm.

View attachment 15381

The upgrades sound really well in terms of clarity, but the highs really overpower the low end now. I just ordered an under the seat powered subwoofer to even everything out, but I'll have to figure out the best mounting spot when I get it. The front seats seem to have too tight of a tolerance and I'm concerned about the 2nd row since those slide for access to the 3rd row. I'll post as I finish everything up.
I was about narrowed down to the same Powerbass 692 as well. When you opened the front doors, did you notice or measure how much room there was? I have 693's in my Chrysler (4ohm) and they are pretty amazing. I wonder if the 6903(also a 2 ohm) would fit in the doors of the Pathy. The 692 are 2.5" deep, while the 6903 is 3.2". What say you?
 

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For those who are replacing the front and rear speakers and not using the existing connectors but tapping into them, please note that the rear right speaker + is the white wire and - is the green. I initially wired the Rear Right wrong and I was losing bass as the speakers were out of phase. Please see below the polarity of the different speakers:

Front Door Speaker (LH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (LH)
+ SB
- Violet

Front Door Speaker (RH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (RH)
+ Brown
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (LH)
+ Light Green
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (RH)
+ White
- Green

Source: AV - Wiring Diagram
Diagnosing and Avoiding Speaker Phase Issues (kef.com)
 

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For those who are replacing the front and rear speakers and not using the existing connectors but tapping into them, please note that the rear right speaker + is the white wire and - is the green. I initially wired the Rear Right wrong and I was losing bass as the speakers were out of phase. Please see below the polarity of the different speakers:

Front Door Speaker (LH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (LH)
+ SB
- Violet

Front Door Speaker (RH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (RH)
+ Brown
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (LH)
+ Light Green
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (RH)
+ White
- Green

Source: AV - Wiring Diagram
Diagnosing and Avoiding Speaker Phase Issues (kef.com)
Thanks for that info. I was about to replace my speakers and suspect that one of the rears is reversed.
 

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2013 Pathfinder SL 4WD
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Check out my thread "Pre Speaker Upgrade Phase Test". I used a pop tester to test all my speakers and fixed the phase on several. I thought at first that there was some purpose by the odd phasing from the factory, but listening to them after the phase correction proved that they were just miswired. There are smartphone apps for phase testing and you tube videos so you may not have to spend any money. I ended buying a dedicated phase tester for about $15. I checked the phasing in 5 of our cars and the Pathfinder was the ONLY one with phase mismatch.
In the end I did not upgrade my speakers because they sounded so much better. But I may still do it some time....
 

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Yes, I read that post a while ago. I've tried two different apps on my phone to check polarity. I don't seem to get really consistent results, but the most consistent was that the left rear speaker was out of phase. Any tips on getting using one of the apps consistently? I used them at medium and high volume and held the phone about 2 inches in front of the speaker. I reversed that left rear and then listened, strange it didn't make any noticeable difference(are the OEM speakers really that crappy?). I've experienced speakers out of phase before and it's a very obvious difference so I was a little puzzled. My new Powerbass speakers arrived yesterday so I'm going to check it all again with the app, and then also use the battery test on the existing speakers to see which way they are connected. I recently also discovered that the right rear speaker in my Chrysler was reversed and that fix was dramatic.
 

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Thanks, what about sound input for the sub?
thats the big question, keep the stock radio or upgrade to something with a sub output. I really hate to splice into it for a high input to the sub and use caps & resistor to lower the voltage & high frequencies input just to keep the stock radio. Ive done both but a sole sub output sounds so much better. There is some nice double din units out there too and compact amps made to fit in these tiny spaces of our pathys
 

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thats the big question, keep the stock radio or upgrade to something with a sub output. I really hate to splice into it for a high input to the sub and use caps & resistor to lower the voltage & high frequencies input just to keep the stock radio. Ive done both but a sole sub output sounds so much better. There is some nice double din units out there too and compact amps made to fit in these tiny spaces of our pathys
There is no need to splice into anything. For $26 you get a hi-lo that comes specifically made for our stock radios, plug and play with your rca outputs for an external amp. Sound quality is great and I have been using mine for over 3 years now, no complaints.
Here is the link if you're interested:
 

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Check out my thread "Pre Speaker Upgrade Phase Test". I used a pop tester to test all my speakers and fixed the phase on several. I thought at first that there was some purpose by the odd phasing from the factory, but listening to them after the phase correction proved that they were just miswired. There are smartphone apps for phase testing and you tube videos so you may not have to spend any money. I ended buying a dedicated phase tester for about $15. I checked the phasing in 5 of our cars and the Pathfinder was the ONLY one with phase mismatch.
In the end I did not upgrade my speakers because they sounded so much better. But I may still do it some time....
I started installing my Powerbass speakers last night. I can confirm as you discovered that the left/rear speaker polarity was reversed. I managed to get consistent results with the app on the phone by running the volume at about medium levels. Too high of volume it seems to not measure consistently. Also did the battery test on the speaker and it definitely had the green wire to the + and it should have been the light yellow.
 

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2013 Pathfinder SL 4WD
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I also had inconsistent results using my iphone as a phase tester. I thought it might be my phone so I bought a "TOOGOO(R) Black Speaker Polarity Tester PH Phase Meter Phasemeter for Auto Car" on Amazon. It is a common model FH-168 under many brand names. We'll be interested to hear how the new speakers and correct phasing sound!
 

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I used the KRK phone app. I finally got pretty consistent results. I installed all the Powerbass speakers today. Based on the app results, both front and RR were all reversed. Now they are all correct, or at least all the same. Sound improvement is significant, but not mind blowing. Imaging is correct now for sure and the rear are dramatically better. It still leaves me thinking about a subwoofer. After seeing the OEM front door speakers, I'm amazed they sounded as good as they did. The magnets are about the diameter of a quarter. I've not seen a speaker like that since the '60s. What I found with the phone app was to hold it at about a 30 degree angle, just a couple inches from the speaker. I did the same consistently in all cases and got consistent results. Make sure you're holding the phone with the microphone facing the speaker too.
 

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BTW, and if this is not allowed, I apologize, I can get the entire Powerbass set of speakers and rear door adapters shipped to anyone in the US for $175. That would include the Powerbass OE692T, OE652 and adapter plates for rear doors. These are all 2 ohm to match with the OE head unit.
 

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There is no need to splice into anything. For $26 you get a hi-lo that comes specifically made for our stock radios, plug and play with your rca outputs for an external amp. Sound quality is great and I have been using mine for over 3 years now, no complaints.
Here is the link if you're interested:
Awesome ty for the link too. I had no idea they made this lol Im getting old
 

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For those who are replacing the front and rear speakers and not using the existing connectors but tapping into them, please note that the rear right speaker + is the white wire and - is the green. I initially wired the Rear Right wrong and I was losing bass as the speakers were out of phase. Please see below the polarity of the different speakers:

Front Door Speaker (LH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (LH)
+ SB
- Violet

Front Door Speaker (RH)
+ Green
- White

Front Tweeter (RH)
+ Brown
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (LH)
+ Light Green
- Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (RH)
+ White
- Green

Source: AV - Wiring Diagram
Diagnosing and Avoiding Speaker Phase Issues (kef.com)
Used KRK tools and then learned that the rears are reversed Polarity so for the rear door speakers, they should be:

Rear Door Speaker (LH)
- Light Green
+ Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (RH)
- White
+ Green
 

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Used KRK tools and then learned that the rears are reversed Polarity so for the rear door speakers, they should be:

Rear Door Speaker (LH)
- Light Green
+ Yellow

Rear Door Speaker (RH)
- White
+ Green
Very strange that so many vehicles have the OEM wiring polarity wrong. My Chrysler 300 had the same issue. As mentioned, I used the KRK app as well, but I'm still not entirely convinced I've got it right. When I fixed it on my Chrysler the difference was night and day but the Pathy still doesn't seem to sound right even though the KRK says it's right. Imaging and bass are still funky to my ears.
 

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The fronts are 6x9 and the rears can be 6 1/2 or 6 3/4. The mounting brackets from crutchfield can accept either one. I replaced the door speakers in my 2017 sv with powerbass brand 2ohm speakers and it helped barely. My next step is going to be a small amp to boost the power. If you (or anyone else) has any insight, it would be great.
What did you end up doing to fix the crappy sound. I also replaced all the speakers with Powerbass 2 ohm. That helped tiny bit. I did discover that one of the rear door speakers had the polarity wrong from the factory, but it still sounds pretty crappy.
 

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I have a 2018 SL w/ navigation and recently decided to upgrade the OEM speakers to aftermarket speakers. Apparently having navigation creates problems when searching for total upgrades so I started with the basics.

I used the PowerBass L2-692T 6" x 9" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the front and the PowerBass L2-652 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the rear. I read to exercise caution on some 6x9's due to the depth hitting the power windows from the back. There weren't too many 2-ohm options available so I went with these on Crutchfield's recommendation. Crutchfield provided the Metra speaker wiring harnesses and the mounting adapters for the 6-1/2"s for no charge with the speakers. The 6x9's were easy and the speaker adapters for the 6.5" just needed the inner tabs removed to fit the speakers properly. The wires for the 6.5" speakers plug into the outside of the OEM speakers, so those speaker wires just needed routed inside the door instead to get to the terminals without drilling any holes in the mounts. All in all, those were easy. The next task was upgrading the 4-ohm dash speakers which are a pain to get the screws in and out and are non-standard speaker sizes. I looked at lots of options, but went with the Powerbass S1S 1-Inch Silk Dome Tweeters to just match the rest of the speakers I purchased. I bought a piece of 3/16 ABS plastic and made some custom mounts for the tweeters by tracing the OEM speakers and using a drill and dremel. There are no speaker wire adapters made for these dash speakers, so I cannibalized the connectors off of the old speakers and made my own adapter to the included tweeter crossover which worked well. I bought a miniature ratchet 90 degree screwdriver to put them back in, but that didn't work any better than the struggle getting them out. I had to use a 10mm socket with some channel locks to turn the screw for the best results on the back ones. Below is a picture of the tweeter in the mount.... not perfect, but fit like a charm.

View attachment 15381

The upgrades sound really well in terms of clarity, but the highs really overpower the low end now. I just ordered an under the seat powered subwoofer to even everything out, but I'll have to figure out the best mounting spot when I get it. The front seats seem to have too tight of a tolerance and I'm concerned about the 2nd row since those slide for access to the 3rd row. I'll post as I finish everything up.
How did you remove the grill to the tweeters.
 

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I used a very small flat blade screw driver to lift the edge closest to the a-pillar and then a plastic pick to get under the front edge once I got it lifted a little. The front edge pops out. The one on the driver's side has the light sensor in it. There's enough wire below to pull it up and unplug it. It's a little frustrating, but patient persistence wins. I'm not sure if I mentioned it in this string, but the dash speakers are 4 ohm. I kept the OEM speakers in there but added a 2 ohm, 25watt resistor inline with them because they were a lttle loud compared to the 2 ohm Powerbass door speakers I installed.
 

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The Platinum has the Bose subwoofer, how would you tie in something more substantial?

Also, the guys over on the Infiniti JX forum do some speaker magic. Apparently there's a drop in for the tweets that makes a huge difference.
please give more info. my '14 platinum pathfinder bose system needs upgrade!
 

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I
I used a very small flat blade screw driver to lift the edge closest to the a-pillar and then a plastic pick to get under the front edge once I got it lifted a little. The front edge pops out. The one on the driver's side has the light sensor in it. There's enough wire below to pull it up and unplug it. It's a little frustrating, but patient persistence wins. I'm not sure if I mentioned it in this string, but the dash speakers are 4 ohm. I kept the OEM speakers in there but added a 2 ohm, 25watt resistor inline with them because they were a lttle loud compared to the 2 ohm Powerbass door speakers I installed.
how did you get the tweeters out? I want to replace them but seems impossible to unscrew because they are so close to the windshield and I can't fit a screw driver right there.
 
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