Nissan Pathfinder Forum banner
81 - 100 of 120 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
The tweeters were easy to take out. Just get a panel remover or use a screw driver and cloth underneath to wedge it out. Same thing with the middle speaker. You'll have to customize the mounts of the speakers in the dash if you're thinking of replacing them. I haven't had the time to change mine and it's a bitch working a screw driver in there. I've only changed the tweeters on the pillars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
The OEM front door speakers are 2ohms. Since I replaced my front speakers with 4ohms...

Can I buy one of those small underseat active subwoofers that accept speaker level inputs, and parallel wire it with the front speakers?

How are speaker level inputs treated by the amp, in terms of resistance (ohms) ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
The OEM front door speakers are 2ohms. Since I replaced my front speakers with 4ohms...

Can I buy one of those small underseat active subwoofers that accept speaker level inputs, and parallel wire it with the front speakers?

How are speaker level inputs treated by the amp, in terms of resistance (ohms) ?


I used the rear subwoofer speaker wires. But I do have the platinum. If you don't have it. Then I'd suggest using the rear speaker wires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
What's the easiest way to access the left/right, front/rear speaker wires?

I'm thinking of installing either a small active sub, or a small 4ch amp (that takes speaker level inputs) under the seats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
+1 on the easiest way to access factory speaker wires on a non-Bose PF. I also posted a separate thread asking about front door speaker size specific to the 2017 model. If anyone in this thread knows the answer, also appreciate the insight. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
What's the easiest way to access the left/right, front/rear speaker wires?

I'm thinking of installing either a small active sub, or a small 4ch amp (that takes speaker level inputs) under the seats.


The door floor panel has the wires being routed. I'd take a look there. Only other option really is to open up your door paneling and follow the wires from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
The OEM front door speakers are 2ohms. Since I replaced my front speakers with 4ohms...

Can I buy one of those small underseat active subwoofers that accept speaker level inputs, and parallel wire it with the front speakers?

How are speaker level inputs treated by the amp, in terms of resistance (ohms) ?
4ohm speakers? Didn't you cut your volume in half?
 

·
Registered
2016 Nissan Pathfinder S FWD
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey everyone, I own a 16 Pathy S and am planning on replacing my head unit with an alpine ILX-W650 in a couple days. I have an old Alpine KTP-445 in dash amp to pair with it, so I'll effectively have 90W x 4 RMS if I read everything correctly. I have a feeling my OEM speakers are not able to handle this for very long. I wish to upgrade all the speakers in the vehicle at the same time for this reason but have a couple questions that I didn't see answered in this forum post. I want to use a 6x9 component system for the front but see that the dash tweets are 2.25" whereas most of the aftermarket stuff is 1". Is there a bracket to be used to fit the smaller tweets? Also I'm lazy and haven't measured the under seat clearance; anyone know how much clearance there is under the second row seats?

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
+1 on the easiest way to access factory speaker wires on a non-Bose PF. I also posted a separate thread asking about front door speaker size specific to the 2017 model. If anyone in this thread knows the answer, also appreciate the insight. :)
The fronts are 6x9 and the rears can be 6 1/2 or 6 3/4. The mounting brackets from crutchfield can accept either one. I replaced the door speakers in my 2017 sv with powerbass brand 2ohm speakers and it helped barely. My next step is going to be a small amp to boost the power. If you (or anyone else) has any insight, it would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Audio mods for PF 14 SV

Has anyone successfully bypassed parking brake and speed sensors to made aux work while vehicle is in motion? Any help folks !!!

I got an MHL converter and a micro USB converter to mirror my mobile phone on the front screen. I have everything working audio and video from my cell phone. I am stuck with the bypass problem. *And I can advice anyone wanting to wireless mirror their cell phones as well. *
I did successfully upgrade to Kicker amps and Infinity speakers though.
Hi, I have the 2016 PF SV without Navigation, can you post a link to the stuff you used? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
Hey everyone, I own a 16 Pathy S and am planning on replacing my head unit with an alpine ILX-W650 in a couple days. I have an old Alpine KTP-445 in dash amp to pair with it, so I'll effectively have 90W x 4 RMS if I read everything correctly. I have a feeling my OEM speakers are not able to handle this for very long. I wish to upgrade all the speakers in the vehicle at the same time for this reason but have a couple questions that I didn't see answered in this forum post. I want to use a 6x9 component system for the front but see that the dash tweets are 2.25" whereas most of the aftermarket stuff is 1". Is there a bracket to be used to fit the smaller tweets? Also I'm lazy and haven't measured the under seat clearance; anyone know how much clearance there is under the second row seats?

Cheers
Under the second row there is a good amount of space for you to mount your amp, at least thats where I put mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have a 2018 SL w/ navigation and recently decided to upgrade the OEM speakers to aftermarket speakers. Apparently having navigation creates problems when searching for total upgrades so I started with the basics.

I used the PowerBass L2-692T 6" x 9" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the front and the PowerBass L2-652 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the rear. I read to exercise caution on some 6x9's due to the depth hitting the power windows from the back. There weren't too many 2-ohm options available so I went with these on Crutchfield's recommendation. Crutchfield provided the Metra speaker wiring harnesses and the mounting adapters for the 6-1/2"s for no charge with the speakers. The 6x9's were easy and the speaker adapters for the 6.5" just needed the inner tabs removed to fit the speakers properly. The wires for the 6.5" speakers plug into the outside of the OEM speakers, so those speaker wires just needed routed inside the door instead to get to the terminals without drilling any holes in the mounts. All in all, those were easy. The next task was upgrading the 4-ohm dash speakers which are a pain to get the screws in and out and are non-standard speaker sizes. I looked at lots of options, but went with the Powerbass S1S 1-Inch Silk Dome Tweeters to just match the rest of the speakers I purchased. I bought a piece of 3/16 ABS plastic and made some custom mounts for the tweeters by tracing the OEM speakers and using a drill and dremel. There are no speaker wire adapters made for these dash speakers, so I cannibalized the connectors off of the old speakers and made my own adapter to the included tweeter crossover which worked well. I bought a miniature ratchet 90 degree screwdriver to put them back in, but that didn't work any better than the struggle getting them out. I had to use a 10mm socket with some channel locks to turn the screw for the best results on the back ones. Below is a picture of the tweeter in the mount.... not perfect, but fit like a charm.

15381


The upgrades sound really well in terms of clarity, but the highs really overpower the low end now. I just ordered an under the seat powered subwoofer to even everything out, but I'll have to figure out the best mounting spot when I get it. The front seats seem to have too tight of a tolerance and I'm concerned about the 2nd row since those slide for access to the 3rd row. I'll post as I finish everything up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Great info in here, thanks to everybody

I'm from Dominican Republic and just purchase a 2014 PF Platimum with nav, the first things I do to all my vehicles is window tint all around, and upgrade sound system, I don't like these "premium" sound system cause generraly they are worthless and hard to upgrade. I have a few question.

  • How much is the height available under 3rd row?
  • Factory sub is amped in the main amp or have a separate one?
  • How much volume is lost if you use 4 ohm speaker, given that 2 or 3 ohm are very rare?
  • Replacing front and rear speaker gives better sound?(amp should be low power for aftermarket speakers)
  • Have anyone install inline amp after factory amp to boost power?

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have a 2018 SL w/ navigation and recently decided to upgrade the OEM speakers to aftermarket speakers. Apparently having navigation creates problems when searching for total upgrades so I started with the basics.

I used the PowerBass L2-692T 6" x 9" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the front and the PowerBass L2-652 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers (2-ohm) in the rear. I read to exercise caution on some 6x9's due to the depth hitting the power windows from the back. There weren't too many 2-ohm options available so I went with these on Crutchfield's recommendation. Crutchfield provided the Metra speaker wiring harnesses and the mounting adapters for the 6-1/2"s for no charge with the speakers. The 6x9's were easy and the speaker adapters for the 6.5" just needed the inner tabs removed to fit the speakers properly. The wires for the 6.5" speakers plug into the outside of the OEM speakers, so those speaker wires just needed routed inside the door instead to get to the terminals without drilling any holes in the mounts. All in all, those were easy. The next task was upgrading the 4-ohm dash speakers which are a pain to get the screws in and out and are non-standard speaker sizes. I looked at lots of options, but went with the Powerbass S1S 1-Inch Silk Dome Tweeters to just match the rest of the speakers I purchased. I bought a piece of 3/16 ABS plastic and made some custom mounts for the tweeters by tracing the OEM speakers and using a drill and dremel. There are no speaker wire adapters made for these dash speakers, so I cannibalized the connectors off of the old speakers and made my own adapter to the included tweeter crossover which worked well. I bought a miniature ratchet 90 degree screwdriver to put them back in, but that didn't work any better than the struggle getting them out. I had to use a 10mm socket with some channel locks to turn the screw for the best results on the back ones. Below is a picture of the tweeter in the mount.... not perfect, but fit like a charm.

View attachment 15381

The upgrades sound really well in terms of clarity, but the highs really overpower the low end now. I just ordered an under the seat powered subwoofer to even everything out, but I'll have to figure out the best mounting spot when I get it. The front seats seem to have too tight of a tolerance and I'm concerned about the 2nd row since those slide for access to the 3rd row. I'll post as I finish everything up.
What size and ohm tweeter came out of the vehicle? Would a 1 3/4 tweeter fit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I have a 2018 SL w/navigation, just upgraded the front and rear speakers and thinking of adding a powered subwoofer. for those who have done this, where do i tap the input and power from? thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
From my 2015. The OEM front 6x9 speaker, beside a super cheap 6x9 I got from Amazon.

Look at that teenie-weenie magnet.
big difference, hope it sounds good too! 2ohm will sound louder/powerful then 4ohm Im assuming your using a seperate amp for the upgrades
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
I have a 2018 SL w/navigation, just upgraded the front and rear speakers and thinking of adding a powered subwoofer. for those who have done this, where do i tap the input and power from? thanks in advance.
Powered sub add on run a fused 8 or 10 or 12 gauge fused power wire from the battery & same gauge size for the ground but right at the subs mounting spot for the ground to chassis to avoid alternator whine feedback, where you can make it look like oem. Ive been looking at powered subs a while, heard a few but none seemed to compare to the bigger box bulky types, good thing though amps are compact now days to save space an hide better. powered subwoofer at Crutchfield
 
81 - 100 of 120 Posts
Top