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Hello everyone, thank you everyone for you contributions to this post. I am having the exact same issue (2015 Nissan Pathfinder Platinum, bought used this summer). I replaced the compressor, ac fluid is fine, replaced the AC amplifier (with 27760-9PB0A), went to 5 different mechanics, spent a lot of money and I am still having the same issue... My nissan dealer basically gave up and told me to try another Nissan Dealer. Should I try and replace 27760-9PB0A with 27760-3KA3A ? A used one is about 100$ including shipping in Canada
 

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Hi Tutti57. I'm a little confused. If I understand, you say it's the ECM that monitors ambient temperature and evaporator temperature to prevent a command from the a/c amp to run the compressor. I must have this wrong because the amp doesn't know about an icing evaporator so changing the amp would have no effect. Can you please set me straight?
 

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The new Nissan Dealer just called and said I need to replace the Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV), because my lines keep freezing. Would this make sense ? Does the AC auto amp control the pressure in the lines ?
 

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The new Nissan Dealer just called and said I need to replace the Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV), because my lines keep freezing. Would this make sense ? Does the AC auto amp control the pressure in the lines ?
That makes little sense to me. What's with the freezing lines? Are they talking about frost on the outside, and if so, which line? You would expect that on the return line but not the liquid line.
 

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Just to close the loop on my problem… the dealer changed the expansion valve and that fixed my problem. The pressure in my AC was problematic and this fixed the issue. Thank you everyone for their comments, really appreciated!
FYI, I have a used 27760-3KA3A if anyone is interested.
 

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Just curious as to some other symptoms to this that others may be experiencing.

My 2015 SV has intermittent air volume output. Once the car has been turned off, or sitting for a little bit, the air blows hard for about 15 mins or more around town, but maybe only 5 mins or so when I get out on the highway.. After that the air volume will slowly diminish away. Also to note, it is winter here in PA, and the air that is blowing out stays quite warm, it is only the volume coming out that changes.

My oddity, that I have not heard anyone else describe, is that my car drips condensation after every single drive. It can be 20* out with only the heat on the vents the entire trip, but I will go out 20 mins later and see a stream of cool water dripping and puddling under my car (my driveway is non a slant, so it actually streams out from underneath). I've touched/tested it many times and I am 99.9% it is water as there is no texture or residue and it is always cool to touch. Never warm as though it was an engine fluid.

This leads me to believe that something is causing my A/C to flat out get turned on or stuck on without my input (A/C AMP I'm hoping), as I have one sitting waiting to get swapped, I just need to find the time.

Anyone else experience this incessant condensation drip?
 

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2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4
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This leads me to believe that something is causing my A/C to flat out get turned on or stuck on without my input (A/C AMP I'm hoping), as I have one sitting waiting to get swapped, I just need to find the time.

Anyone else experience this incessant condensation drip?
I've mentioned this in a bunch of HVAC related threads, but assuming your 2015 is the same as my 2019, the a/c compressor cycles in any and all HVAC settings on the pathfinder. Turn full blast heat on in 0degF temp and the sucker is still commanded to cycle along with the cooling fans being commanded to go full bore. It makes no sense for anything other than w/s defrost setting, but Nissan knows better I guess.

The only way to not have the compressor cycle (and produce condensate) is to turn the HVAC system totally off.
 

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I've mentioned this in a bunch of HVAC related threads, but assuming your 2015 is the same as my 2019, the a/c compressor cycles in any and all HVAC settings on the pathfinder. Turn full blast heat on in 0degF temp and the sucker is still commanded to cycle along with the cooling fans being commanded to go full bore. It makes no sense for anything other than w/s defrost setting, but Nissan knows better I guess.

The only way to not have the compressor cycle (and produce condensate) is to turn the HVAC system totally off.
Thanks for the info and input. I've always suspected this of the hvac system, but have never found anything to confirm. I've literally never seen a vehicle that leaks condensate ALL the time, and enough to puddle or stream out from under the car consistently too. I've even paid attention to other Nissan's in parking lots.
Actually, one of my, what liquid is this tests, consisted of driving with the HVAC system off entirely to see if it still dripped.
That maybe isn't related at all you the erratic blower fan then, so fingers crossed the AMP fixes that. When it decides to dwindle away, some of my trips get a bit chilly.
 

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This is from the 2015 User Manual.

View attachment 16691

I know that on mine, the AC compressor cycles only when defrost or defrost/feet modes are selected.
Interesting, I wonder from the Manual exert, does the HVAC maintain the temperature all the time, or only when it is set in AUTO mode? I never use AUTO mode, because I'm old school and like to control where and what comes out of the vents.

The heating section does make me think that I do have an issue that is turning the A/C on, probably the AC Auto Amp heating up then goofing up? To throw another wrench in my spokes. I took my car 30 mins away yesterday, 15* outside temp, mix of highway and rural driving, and the HVAC system (heat & fan) worked flawlessly, and no condensate drip. It actually heated me out to the point that I turned the fan down to the #2 setting (& 72* temp) and it was putting more airflow out tan it normally does on the MAX setting setting. This is the first time I was actually too warm in this vehicle since winter hit. I suppose the inconsistency of the fan speed points to electrical, which again says AC Auto AMP ?
 

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2015 Pathfinder SL - Tech 4WD
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AUTO only changes fan speed and which vents are used, the temp is whatever you set it to. I don't like the AUTO and never use it.
I recently came across an issue on my Taurus in which I found that when going through a car wash with the recirculation OFF, water was entering and soaking the cabin filter which then froze, altering the air flow. This started after I installed a carbon cabin filter.
So, whenever you are experiencing erratic air flow, test different vent modes and remove the filter, this will help you determine if the issue is fan speed or something else such as the vent modes not working properly.
 

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So, the HVAC system will the HVAC system actually tr to put out a certain temperature air (matching what you select 60-90*) and heat cool it accordingly, or is that just a number assigned to the normal blue-red dial? If it tries to ump out a matching temp, then would it have to use the A/C to cool air if it gets above the set temp? In the summer, if I have the temp set to anything remotely lose or below the outside temp, noticeably cold air comes out of the vents. If I select the A/C on, then it gets even colder. Just weird how cold it will get w/out A/C on, when essentially it should be flowing outside air...

As far as the filters, I've all but ruled that out because the fan speed varies....If it was a clogged filter then one would assume that it would be a consistent blockage or even repeatable.
 

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I have a 2015 Pathfinder SL, had my compressor replaced 3 months ago, and have had the exact problem described above since. Good air flow for the first 5-10 minutes and then it quickly fades ( even though I can hear the blower going like crazy still ). On my drive to work, I’ve been turning the heat on for 1-2 minutes at a time, then turning the climate system completely off to prevent it from freezing. Repeat every 5-10 minutes or whenever I’m about to get frostbite. Not ideal.

I just ordered part no. 27760-3KA3A used from ebay and the shop that replaced my compressor will install it when it arrives. Will let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed. Really glad I found this thread because I no longer feel alone with this issue.
 

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Remember that there are other things that can cause icing, which is what blocks the airflow. The txv or thermal expansion valve will cause this if it's stuck open. Moisture in the system is very real and can cause this. Overcharged system can cause this. Especially if you have recently used one of those AWFUL refrigerant cans.

Hi Tutti57. I'm a little confused. If I understand, you say it's the ECM that monitors ambient temperature and evaporator temperature to prevent a command from the a/c amp to run the compressor. I must have this wrong because the amp doesn't know about an icing evaporator so changing the amp would have no effect. Can you please set me straight?
All of the vehicle modules communicate on the CAN lines. Those data fields can only be seen by us in those specific modules on scantools. One benefit of CAN is that they don't have to run all of those wires to every single module. It can now be shared with all each other on just two wires.
 

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UPDATE I finally got serous to replacing the Amplifier. Took about 30 mins to do, pretty straight forward and the new "old" style amp plugged right in. Took the car for about a 15-20 minute drive and I'm all but certain my problem is fixed.
Air temperature was discernably cooler or warmer as it was changed, even at small increments (before I had to make drastic changes to the temp, and even then it was either cold or hot, never in between), never lost vent air flow blowing capacity, for the first time ever I could feel air blow out of the floor vents and the biggest sign of the system working properly: when the setting was in either of the defrost modes the AC light would turn on. It never turned on before, or at least the light would not light.
It's pretty obvious, from others experiences, the wrong Amplifier was installed in these cars and it just doesn't communicate correctly with HVAC components. Surprised there is no recall or TSB💁
 

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Glad to hear it's sorted out. I don't think that a wrong part was originally installed, or the problem would have been there all along. Every instance I've seen this happen is after another part has been replaced. The compatibility wouldn't just change on its own.

Recalls are safety related, initiated by a parts vendor, and I don't think this is something widespread enough for a tab to be issued. Nissan is able to collect data on all of the stuff that goes through the dealerships, and it's likely not a blip on the radar vs what is seen in forums, just do to the giant difference in sample size they would have.
 

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Glad to hear it's sorted out. I don't think that a wrong part was originally installed, or the problem would have been there all along. Every instance I've seen this happen is after another part has been replaced. The compatibility wouldn't just change on its own.

Recalls are safety related, initiated by a parts vendor, and I don't think this is something widespread enough for a tab to be issued. Nissan is able to collect data on all of the stuff that goes through the dealerships, and it's likely not a blip on the radar vs what is seen in forums, just do to the giant difference in sample size they would have.

You know, I never thought of the fact that something was replaced causing another part to not work properly. Possibly and A/C replaced with an updated non compatible unit? I was not the original owner, but I do have the carfax, all of the vehicles work was done at Nissan dealers, less a battery & oil changes, nothing has been documented. Odd situation for sure
 
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