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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a BlackVue DR900X-Plus powered by my cigarette lighter. The box came with a hardwire kit, I just need to pick up taps and fuses if I want to use it instead. Electrical concepts are not foreign to me - I run my own network cables, replace household receptacles and breakers, stuff like that - but I've never done this before so I'm looking for a little bit of guidance.

I need to tap into an ignition fuse and an always-on fuse. According to the diagram, I'm thinking possibly (IGN) ELEC PARTS1 and (AUTO ACC) ELEC PARTS 1 if I'm reading it correctly?
 

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2022 Nissan Pathfinder (SL) FWD (04/22)
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I have installed a BlackVue DR900X-Plus powered by my cigarette lighter. The box came with a hardwire kit, I just need to pick up taps and fuses if I want to use it instead. Electrical concepts are not foreign to me - I run my own network cables, replace household receptacles and breakers, stuff like that - but I've never done this before so I'm looking for a little bit of guidance.

I need to tap into an ignition fuse and an always-on fuse. According to the diagram, I'm thinking possibly (IGN) ELEC PARTS1 and (AUTO ACC) ELEC PARTS 1 if I'm reading it correctly?
This thread might be useful for what you're trying to do and possibly additional accessories you might be looking to power...


Also, the following YouTuber posted a great how-to guide installing a dash-cam on his R53, using the factory accessory wire harness.. ;)


Good luck! Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a fair point. I'm already aware of his videos - in fact I've commented on his dash cam part 2 video about a better path - but he taps into the accessory connector instead of the fuses. Considering I have the accessory connector ordered, I might as well just wait and use that instead.
 

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2022 Nissan Pathfinder (SL) FWD (04/22)
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That's a fair point. I'm already aware of his videos - in fact I've commented on his dash cam part 2 video about a better path - but he taps into the accessory connector instead of the fuses. Considering I have the accessory connector ordered, I might as well just wait and use that instead.
It really does make it much simpler and safer as it's a factory option designed for use with dealer installed accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah. I think I was concerned because he mentioned he has lots of accessories and has used up everything on his connector. I plan to do the same, so I figured I'd use taps for the dash cam.
 

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I also ran my Thinkware to the accessory connector. I wanted to have parking mode working so I ran the power wire from the cam to the bat wire (red) on the connector and the accessory wire to the ignition wire (white) on the connector. I originally had it running to the acc wire (orange) on the plug but the camera would go into drive mode when I opened a door or the trunk etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I finally got around to doing the wiring on this, but something is weird. The camera's parking mode stays active for about a minute, then shuts down. It's like it's not getting enough power. I've done what everybody else has done, wiring the "drive" wire to the white ignition wire, the "parking" wire to the red battery wire, and of course ground to ground. With a voltmeter I can touch the non-piercing side of the positap on the red battery wire while the car is off, and it's not reading correct. I see up to 5V and it drops quickly to 0. I touch it again, and the same thing. This sounds to me like it didn't make a good pierce. I tried tightening everything, but it didn't help.

The only variation I've noticed from the guides is that I used red positap with a black piercing cap for 18-24 AWG instead of the red with gray for 20-22 AWG.

Any advice anybody can give? At the very least, in drive mode everything is working as intended, so I'm not any worse off than using my cigarette lighter.
 

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I didn’t have those wire taps and the cheap ones I got off Amazon wouldn’t even cut through to make contact with the wire. I just ended up stripping the end of each wire and connecting that way.
I’m assuming you played around with the dash cam settings.
Sorry I don’t have a volt meter so I can’t help with measurements.
 

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It seems some hardwire kits don’t follow the typical colours we’re used to seeing. I don’t know if this is the case for your camera but on my hardwire kit the yellow is the constant power, the red is the ignition/acc and they got the black as ground right.
So my wiring looks like this
Dash cam kit -> Nissan accessory connection
Yellow wire -> red wire
Red wire -> white wire (white is ignition)
Black wire -> black wire
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It seems some hardwire kits don’t follow the typical colours we’re used to seeing. I don’t know if this is the case for your camera but on my hardwire kit the yellow is the constant power, the red is the ignition/acc and they got the black as ground right.
So my wiring looks like this
Dash cam kit -> Nissan accessory connection
Yellow wire -> red wire
Red wire -> white wire (white is ignition)
Black wire -> black wire
Don't worry, the wires in my hardwire kit are well labelled. Once I found the pinout for the accessory connector, it was pretty easy to match them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just redid the wiring again, confirmed everything is good and tight, and measured a steady 12.0V with the car off. Sometimes the camera runs a while, sometimes it stops quickly. I have no idea what's going on, but I've put in a ticket with BlackVue/Pittasoft to see if they have any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, the plot thickens. Maybe I should start a new thread, but this is still related I suppose. A buddy suggested that maybe I have a bad battery. Based on my tests, I think he's right, but I want to get another opinion before I try to convince the service department, since I'm expecting they'll fight me on this.

With the car having been off for about 4 hours, I measured the voltage from the battery terminals directly and got 11.93V. I started the car and measured 14.5V and could see the voltage slowly ticking up as the alternator did its thing. When I stopped the car again, within a minute it was back down to 11.99V.

What I'm being told is that for 14.5V while running, I should expect about 12.7V to 12.5V for a brand new battery with the car off. Anything less than 12.2V he considers dead, and 11.99V just a minute after running is alarming. Anybody have any thoughts?

Auto part Technology Electronic device Automotive exterior Wire
 

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I had a bad battery 2 years into having a 2018 Rogue. Mine wouldn’t start though, you’d hear the starter click and all the lights on the dash flash but that’s it. I got it boosted and drove to the dealer which was a bit of a mistake. When the dealer tried and tested it they said it was good. I guess that drive was long enough to charge the battery to the point the voltage looked good. Ended up staying over night and the next morning it was dead again. At that point they said it was the battery and I got a new one. I don’t remember the exact reading but when I checked the voltage (when it wouldn’t start) it was 11.something.
Does your PF ever sit for a day or two?
I’m battling the flu, but when I feel well enough to get out I can check what my battery reads for comparison, if you want
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No, mine rarely sits around. On recent trips, I can be driving for half an hour, stop the car, and before I've even managed to exit the vehicle I hear the warning from the camera that the voltage is low. We're talking 5-10 seconds. It's almost like the alternator isn't charging it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, so here's an update. I think I have this figured out. The dealer tested the battery, starter, and alternator. No problems at all. I think it's the eco mode. The manual doesn't mention anything about this, but I think it isn't charging the battery more than it absolutely needs to. Driving home from the dealer (15 minutes) in auto mode, and the voltages are reading nicely: 14.6 while running, stable 12.4 while off with the camera running.
 

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Ok, so here's an update. I think I have this figured out. The dealer tested the battery, starter, and alternator. No problems at all. I think it's the eco mode. The manual doesn't mention anything about this, but I think it isn't charging the battery more than it absolutely needs to. Driving home from the dealer (15 minutes) in auto mode, and the voltages are reading nicely: 14.6 while running, stable 12.4 while off with the camera running.
When you say "ECO" mode, you're referring to the drive mode, right? If so, I wonder if it has to do with the Start/Stop feature as that has a separate battery that the charging system needs to maintain too? I'm guessing at best, but it might explain the extra charge or draw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, the drive mode. I know the ISS barely functions at all in the "AUTO" mode, as the ventilation gets priority no matter what its doing. I mentioned this in another thread. In "ECO" mode, the ISS functions as I would expect: stopping the engine when I stop the car for a bit, and back up again when I lift my foot off the brake. ECO mode is also more graceful with the cruise control adjusting speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, more info. It's NOT eco mode as the problem came back. After talking to some more folks over at DashCamTalk, and a mechanic friend who looked up the service manuals, I think we know what's going on.

The car has a ton of electrical components that stay running when you stop the car: the digital dash, the touchscreen, carplay, the modem, the fob proximity sensor, and more. There's so much that it drops the voltage below the 12V cutoff on the dash cam. This behavior is within Nissan's spec, but doesn't play nice with the camera. Not sure how Nissan's rebranded camera does it, but that basically doesn't matter.

The only real solution is a battery for the camera. BlackVue sells one for $360 which is a downright absurd price for a 6000mAh battery. Even at $100, that's probably 80% markup for them. It's a price for suckers is what it is. To solve this problem, he's going to build be a board with a buck boost converter and some LiFe batteries for $40. No risk of a lithium-ion fire, so we're just going to wire it up and shove it under dash and call it a day.

So yeah, this has been a "fun" adventure. I'll update once this thing is installed.
 
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