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2017 PF sputtering at red light

9430 Views 29 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Barnes
Hi,


Recently I noticed my 2017 PF sputtering while in Drive when I'm stopped at a red light.


My wife and I looked around to see if it was someone with a loud stereo with death metal music and subwoofers blasting... but nope, it was the engine/exhaust making the noise.


I put it in Neutral and the RPMs increased and the sputtering stopped. Put it back in Drive and the RPMs dropped and it started sputtering again.


It has 33,000 KM on it and I've only ever changed the oil.


Any thoughts?




Thanks!
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Which is why I haven't taken it in yet. I know how dealerships work. I'll get no code, unable to reproduce, and then the bill.

But it has definitely gotten worse. I'll try to capture the misfiring one of these days when I'm not driving to work. Many days, like today, I never even come to a stop bewteeen home and work.

Edit: that screenshot was from 4/29/20. I'll pull it up again and compare in the next couple days (I work a very odd shift).
The only thing that I can think of that would cause a widespread misfire is a vacuum leak, perhaps a bad check valve or the brake booster going bad.
Does it do this every time? Does AC on have an impact it?

What is the short term fuel trim % after warmed up, at idle, in park, all accessories off? Hopefully you have a scantool that can do this and read codes. If not, you'll have to get one or pay someone who has one and knows how to use it.

That's not how dealers work. It's how diagnosis works, and it turns out that way all the time. If there's no data and it's not reproducible, then there is nothing to test.
Does it do this every time? Does AC on have an impact it?

What is the short term fuel trim % after warmed up, at idle, in park, all accessories off? Hopefully you have a scantool that can do this and read codes. If not, you'll have to get one or pay someone who has one and knows how to use it.

That's not how dealers work. It's how diagnosis works, and it turns out that way all the time. If there's no data and it's not reproducible, then there is nothing to test.
I don't have a scan tool, which do you recommend... BlueDriver?
I don't have a scan tool, which do you recommend... BlueDriver?

Just a basic Bluetooth OBD2 dongle for $10 and a $5 app will get you what you need. Any of the cheap singles on Amazon with good reviews will work, then download one if the apps like Torque pro or incardoc pro. The first one is more popular but the second one is more better.
I don't have a scan tool, which do you recommend... BlueDriver?
Steve, just out of curiosity, you started this thread about 2.5yrs ago. I assume you're still having the same symptoms with your 2017? Gotta assume it's not anything major if you've still not gotten a check engine light or worse problems.

I had a barely run situation with my 2019 that gave MAF sensor codes. Only after cleaning and replacing the MAF did I discover an ill fitting aftermarket engine air filter (Napa pro-select brand). These filters don't have the metal mesh/screen on them and in my case, the element sagged, causing unfiltered air to pass and foul the MAF. Just suggesting something to check.

Our 2019 is currently at around 52K miles. Still does the cold start idle stumble/miss for the first few seconds. It's gone before you take-off.
yeah, same issue, no check engine light, etc... just that little annoyance :)

I use the FRAM TGA4309S Tough Guard air filter. I'm at around 52,000KM.

I might get one of those smart ODB2 scanners, would be cool to see what's going on overall.
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Grab one. There's really no reason to not have one at this point with them being so cheap. You may find a code stored and may not. Without codes, you have to know how to interpret data, which is the tough part.

It's an expensive lesson to learn that codes don't tell you the problem. Some people never learn from that lesson either.

There are a lot of good resources out there to learn from on YouTube, but there are far more bad ones, and unfortunately,the bad ones are the most popular. Probably because the good ones are gears toward professionals and the bad are geared toward a diy market looking for a silver bullet fix. A good way to pick out bad information is if the video says how to fix xyz code. There is not one fix. You want ones that say how to diagnose xyz code.

From a diy perspective, I'd say matt from Schrodinger's box QM is my favorite. He breaks it down well and you can learn how to use that tool from him.
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Cvtz50 app will also read cvt temp. Torque app does not.
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My wife's 2018 Pathfinder is having this problem. Research has told me that I need to clean the Throttle Housing, Vacuum the Mas Air Flow, check for any disconnected or leaky air hoses, add some HEAT/Fuel Injector Cleaner and probably change fuel filter.

If that doesn't work, Plugs and Coils, possible crank shaft sensor or replace fuel injectors. I saw several older Nissans have a sputtering issues at 40-60K miles, which my wife's is at 50k, and it was fixed with plugs and coils.

However, we have had a lot of cold nights 42 degrees and then 70 during the day and if the tank was empty, could be a decent amount of condensation so a HEAT bomb may be waiting. With a little seafoam while I am at it.
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