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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2016 Pathfinder decided to give me the battery warning light last night while I was driving home… I made it home with no issue but it was Revving weirdly. I scanned it before shutting it off and got a U1000-00 code.

Today it will start but it will idle weirdly. I can give it gas and rev the engine in park. I move it to reverse and drive and it will engage the gear and move but I have no throttle response/won’t accelerate.

I’ve read it could the ECU itself or a bad relay or bad ground…
If anyone has any ideas or experience with this I will take any help I can get!

Thanks!
 

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2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4
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I'd look into a charging system or battery problem first. Are you showing ~14VDC across the battery with a volt meter when the engine is idling? Maybe then look at grounds. Any work done to the vehicle lately that could disturb anything? Any aftermarket electronics?
 

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U1000 are communication codes. If it is stored in the ECM, that means the ecm sent a message to another module on the CAN network, and that other module didn't respond. The module storing the U1000 is not the problem, it's the one telling on another one, always.

Definitely check your battery and charging system like others mentioned since low voltage can cause communication issues when the voltage drops too low for them to work properly. Failing diodes in the alternator that can let too much AC voltage into the DC system, which can cause wacky stuff to happen.

If it's not one of those basic things, you'll have to get handy with a multimeter and find a way to scan all of the modules to find out what's missing. Or bring it to the dealership or a shop that would diagnose a communication issue. A lot won't and will outsource it to the dealer, but there are skilled diagnostic techs out there, so who knows.

If you're feeling brave, I can try to help remotely.
 

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I checked the voltage on the battery and got about 12.6v when not running and 10.8v when idling... I'm guessing alternator but is it possible that it could be just the battery?
How old is the battery. If it's old, I'd replace it and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Today it wont start at all, I still get all the interior dash, screens and lights turning on but it barley tries to turn over. Battery reads 11.96V (not running).

The battery is getting old so ill get it checked later on and will probably replace it anyways (much cheaper than the alternator so fingers crossed)
 

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Bad batteries kill alternators, bad alternators kill batteries.

10v running is way too low. Even bad batteries will show 14v running since you're getting it from the alt. It could be time for both. No battery light on your dash with that going on?

Two commonly overlooked things here too. If the belt is slipping, the alternator won't work. You'd probably hear it chirping or squealing though. You can't just look for cracks on the belt like the old days, you measure the rib depth with a gauge now. If there are cracks, the it's really shot. The other is voltage drop testing the battery cable that goes to the alternator. With the car running, put your positive meter lead on the battery positive post, and the negative meter lead on the cable power post on the alternator. Your meter should read less then 500mV or .5v. Both of those things should be checked before condemning an alternator.

If you've got more than .5v there, there is excessive resistance in that wire and it will cause the battery to not get charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So Battery test results are in
12.19V
273CCA

So battery is bad and probably alt too... I already pulled the belt and will probably replace it just in case. Alternator on the PF is a pain to get to so voltage drop test may be difficult.
 

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So Battery test results are in
12.19V
273CCA

So battery is bad and probably alt too... I already pulled the belt and will probably replace it just in case. Alternator on the PF is a pain to get to so voltage drop test may be difficult.
Who said the battery is bad ?
You don't have a bad cell.
293 CCA seems high.

Since you battery voltage is higher when off than running seems to me your alternator is not charging.
 

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If it was done at the dealer, they use a tool that says if it's bad or not. The CCA output depends on battery temp too, which that tool takes into consideration. I wouldn't call that a high number.

If it says it failed, then you can try recharging it but it just may not hold a charge well. Maybe get some alternator quotes and see what the budget is.
 
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