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Hi Ronald,

I saw these Ball Stud hardware on Amazon. Would these work? Also - did you replace both sides as I imagine it will only be time before the other side experiences the same issues.
View attachment 15343
It looks like they will work and will be less costly than where I purchased my stud bolts. So far I only repaired the side that broke and lubricated the other side, however I may need to do both sides in future. Good luck.
 

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Hello Ronald, thank you for putting the time into documenting this fix. My strut is stuck in the open position, is there any way to bring it to the closed position so I can at least close the hatch while I prep for this repair?
 

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Hello Ronald, thank you for putting the time into documenting this fix. My strut is stuck in the open position, is there any way to bring it to the closed position so I can at least close the hatch while I prep for this repair?
Yes, make sure you shut off the power switch then with the hatch fully open prop the broken and stuck strut against the strut support bracket and pull the hatch back into closed position. Using the hatch as a lever will force the strut to close. You cannot easily close it by hand. Hope this works!!
 

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Yes, make sure you shut off the power switch then with the hatch fully open prop the broken and stuck strut against the strut support bracket and pull the hatch back into closed position. Using the hatch as a lever will force the strut to close. You cannot easily close it by hand. Hope this works!!
Thanks for the quick response! That worked. Question though, will the strut stay in the closed position? When I opened the door again it slowly extended back to the open position. Power switch is off - although if I click the power button on the lift gate it still beeps, not sure if that's expected behavior with power off.
 

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Thanks for the quick response! That worked. Question though, will the strut stay in the closed position? When I opened the door again it slowly extended back to the open position. Power switch is off - although if I click the power button on the lift gate it still beeps, not sure if that's expected behavior with power off.
I think some people would actually disconnect the strut wiring and remove it until a repair is completed. I elected to leave it in place and then temporarily wire the strut to the broken support which eliminated the problem you are having. Good luck and please let me know how this works!!
 

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I am interested in how you did this. Have the same problem. Any help would be appreciated.
This same problem happened to my 2014 Nissan Pathfinder and because they changed the design the only option offered was to replace all parts with new design approx $2,000.00 or convert to a manual system approx $500.00. I managed to source new strut support bracket bolts from the US and managed to drill out the rusted and seized support ball and bracket bolt. My cost was around $60.00 Canadian and two hours of my time. I am currently developing a step by step set of instructions with pictures to describe the repair process.
 

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I am interested in how you did this. Have the same problem. Any help would be appreciated.
If you go back to one of my earlier posts I provided a description (PDF) with a few pictures outlining how I repaired my 2014 Pathfinder rear hatch broken strut support stud. You should also find references where the strut supports are available. It is exciting for me to provide this do it yourself repair procedure potentially saving owners a great deal of money.
 

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Okay, I finally completed the description of a repair procedure that I developed to resolve the seized and broken rear hatch strut support stud on my 2014 Pathfinder SL.

If you are successful using this repair please let everyone know your thoughts. God Bless and stay safe.
I want to give a shout out to Roger St.P for his amazing document and advice on here. I had the exact same issue, ordered the parts via Amazon ($23 here in Canada). I had to wrestle with drilling out some very seized pieces from the old broken stud, but they came out after some elbow grease! Huge thanks to Roger and this forum. You guys are awesome!!
 

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I want to give a shout out to Roger St.P for his amazing document and advice on here. I had the exact same issue, ordered the parts via Amazon ($23 here in Canada). I had to wrestle with drilling out some very seized pieces from the old broken stud, but they came out after some elbow grease! Huge thanks to Roger and this forum. You guys are awesome!!
I am so pleased that you were able to use this repair procedure successfully. It is worthwhile to spend the time and energy drilling out the broken stud ball and brocket bolt. I found it to be very gratifying to complete the repair for less than fifty dollars as opposed to two thousand.
 

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If you go back to one of my earlier posts I provided a description (PDF) with a few pictures outlining how I repaired my 2014 Pathfinder rear hatch broken strut support stud. You should also find references where the strut supports are available. It is exciting for me to provide this do it yourself repair procedure potentially saving owners a great deal of money.
 

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I am having the same issue in NS and have been given the same run around. A friend has wired the arm to the bolt so I can at least close the trunk and drive. Not using the trunk hatch is driving me crazy with three kids and two dogs. I love what you have done Ronald St Peter here but am nervous to attempt. The trunk almost crushed me when I turned the power lift off.. Did you just used a broom handle to prop it open?
 

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Turning off the power lift prevents the broken strut from extending fully until the repair is completed. If the strut is secured to the bracket you may be able to keep power switch on temporarily. If you order the strut stud bolts and take to a local garage they should have no problem performing the repair. Make sure you apply a spray penatrent lubricant to the other strut supports inboard and outboard to prevent seizing. Good Luck
 

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Okay, I finally completed the description of a repair procedure that I developed to resolve the seized and broken rear hatch strut support stud on my 2014 Pathfinder SL.

If you are successful using this repair please let everyone know your thoughts. God Bless and stay safe.
Thank you for the write-up. It helped me to figure out what I had to do to repair my 2014 Pathfinder Hybrid Platinum that had the same rusted, seized, and then broken stud on the bracket. When it broke off, the strut extended and I could not get it to shorten. I had to drive home with the hutch door ajar. I then removed the strut by removing the upper bracket and disconnecting the wire inside of the panel. I was going to order the entire strut, but being ~$300 parts, I am glad I did not order one. After reading this thread, I realized that all I need is a new bracket. Yeah, I could have done similar to what you did with a $5 stud, but instead, I ordered an OEM bracket for $35. In fact, since the left side bracket was equally rusted though not yet seized, I ordered both R and L for $70.

The hardest part was drilling out the ball portion of the stud that was completely rusted and seized inside of the socket. It would have been almost impossible to drill out the ball in the socket using a hand drill while the strut still attached to the car. So, even if I could have closed the hatch door somehow, I would eventually had to remove the entire strut off the car. At first, I did not have the correct size drill bit. 10mm was slightly too small. But I did not want to make the hole too big and end up not being able to secure the new ball part inside of the socket. That's when I consulted your document to check the size of the ball. A 13mm diameter hole is what I needed to drill. I used a 1/2" drill bit which is 12.7mm. This was a perfect size.

A tiny piece of the last portion of the ball came loose as I finished drilling. Then I cleaned all the rust off with the Dremel tool and painted the part before reassembling it.

The left side was much easier. Since it was not seized, I could switch the bracket without removing the entire strut. I still used the Dremel tool to clean the rust and gave a coating of anti-rust paint before reassembling the strut with a brand new bracket.

All and all, it took me most part of this afternoon to finish the repair, but the cost was basically $70 for the R and L brackets. I did not even bother taking my car to a dealer to get a quote, but I am certain that I saved a bundle.

LIFTGATE SUPPORT STRUT HOLDER (RIGHT, LOWER)
Part Number: 90476-3KA1A

LIFTGATE SUPPORT STRUT HOLDER (LEFT, LOWER)
Part Number: 90477-3KA1A

Thanks again.

Right side strut lower bracket (on the door) rusted, seized, and broken.
16105


Close-up view of broken stud and seized ball in the socket and retainer clip
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Drilling out the seized ball portion of the stud.
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The only piece that came off from inside of the socket. Viewed from the drilled side.
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The only piece that came off from inside of the socket. Viewed from the undrilled side.
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The ball socket cleaned and ready to be painted. Showing old broken bracket and new purchased one.
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Reinstalled strut and bracket.
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Left side lower bracket equally rusted but not yet seized
16106


Removing the retainer clip.
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Cleaned the rust and gave a coat of anti-rust paint before reinstalling it with a new bracket.
16110
 

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Pretty much exactly what I ddi. Dealer was super helpful once I removed the frozen ball from the socket. With the new one, grease the heck out of it!
 

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Do you think this is a 2014 Pathfinder with a power lift gate-specific problem? All the comment from others having the same problem seems to be 2014 model. We bought ours a little over 2 years ago used. Immediately after the purchase, I had its underbody spayed with WoolWax rust protection. But I was not expecting the first "rust problem" to happen on the hutch door.
 

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Do you think this is a 2014 Pathfinder with a power lift gate-specific problem? All the comment from others having the same problem seems to be 2014 model. We bought ours a little over 2 years ago used. Immediately after the purchase, I had its underbody spayed with WoolWax rust protection. But I was not expecting the first "rust problem" to happen on the hutch door.
It is most definitely a design issue. Take a look at the angles: who would use a 90 degree offset on that hinge if they had a choice? Plus there is no need for a ball and socket (like your human elbow).

I am impressed with your write-up. Great work! In my case, the ball was rusted into the socket so it took a ton of PB Blaster, rust remover, time and an easy-out drilled into the frozen ball before I could manhandle it out of the socket. Like you, I cleaned it up, but did not bother with rust paint - just did the Boeshield and pack it full of lithium grease trick before it was reassembled.

It is an awful design but the workaround, with a little effort, will save older PF owners a small fortune. Note that the newer PFs have a different design and computer.
 

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Note that the newer PFs have a different design and computer.
Yeah, before reading this thread, I thought I had to replace the entire strut. When I was looking for the strut, I found this eBay listing. NISSAN PATHFINDER 2013-2016 Power Tailgate Shock Strut OEM | eBay It says, "2013-2016", but the ball joint part of the strut is different from our 2014 design. (see captured photo below.) Then, I realized, even if I get this strut, I still have to buy the correct lower bracket to go with this strut. All of the used Pathfinder OEM struts I could find online had upper bracket still attached to the strut but the lower bracket was always missing. That's when I came across this thread and made me realize that all I need is a new lower bracket as long as somehow I can release the seized ball from the socket of the strut.

Knowing how expensive just a bracket cost (MSRP: $55.60), like others have commented here, I imagine it would have cost close to $1K if I had both the strut and the bracket replaced at a dealer. I am glad I could get this repaired at a reasonable cost. Other than routine maintenance, this was the first real repair this car had to have so far.

16112
 

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... I imagine it would have cost close to $1K if I had both the strut and the bracket replaced at a dealer. I am glad I could get this repaired at a reasonable cost. Other than routine maintenance, this was the first real repair this car had to have so far.
Just to be clear, my dealer (who I actually trust!) said that the older units that need this repair need TWO struts, two brackets and a new computer. I was quoted $1750 CAD IIRC.

And lucky you on repairs - ours has been a money pit on wheels. And the extended warranty is over so I had to find a lower cost fix. BTW, the dealer is now using this fix on older PFs. Better to charge a couple hours labour and a hundred bucks in parts to keep customers happy. I know that is weird - a dealer not doing full cost parts replacement. ;)
 
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