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My wife purchased a 2014 Pathfinder Platinum about a month ago. About two weeks ago I heard/felt a pop and it began to shift weird. I was fully aware of the issues (recall/lawsuit) of the CVT. Sadly, it is not under the extended 84,000 mile warranty as it has 90,000. The good news is we purchased a 36,000 mile warranty and it was within the first 30 days so the dealer (a Ford dealer) will be covering it at no cost to us. The irony is I had an appointment at a Nissan dealer later that week for a trans fluid change as I saw it was done by an independent shop 8,000 miles ago and did not feel comfortable with that. It broke over 100 miles form home but was able to limp it back to the dealer.

It has been taken to a Nissan dealer and now they are trying to determine on Monday if they will be replacing the CVT or rebuilding it. The cost difference I was told by my wife was only $500 as she talked to them and that the dealer is pushing for a brand new transmission. It will be up to the adjuster though and I am hopeful they simply put a new unit it.

My question is if they do a rebuild on it has this been shown to work correctly on these CVTs? It does not sound like it would simply be replacing the valve but rather a full CVT rebuild based on the cost. I don't know if there is a high success or failure rate of a rebuilt CVT on these. I am assuming they will put a new one in, but I will ask this to those whom might know better than I do.

Does anyone know what if new what kind of warranty Nissan offers on a newly installed CVT? Same question with a rebuilt one I guess. I haven't had any communication with the Nissan dealer as it was sent to them by the Ford dealer we purchased it at.

Does anyone know if they have to remove the transfer case or drain it for the process of doing this? Mainly I am asking is do they need to do that with a transfer case or rear diff as I am a person who is really on point about taking care of his vehicles and would have those fluids changed by my mechanic to prevent future issues. If they have to do this for the logistics of the replacement than it is something I don't need to have changed right away.

Thank you for any assistance.
 

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Welcome to the forum .

I don't think any dealer rebuilds transmissions, CVT's or regular ones. They usually just replace faulty components like the valve body but I doubt they would do anything more than that.
Most of the time, new or reman parts have a one year warranty when installed by them.

Check the bill when you get your car back, it should tell you which oils were added.
 

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They usually just replace faulty components like the valve body but I doubt they would do anything more than that.
The have started doing pulley-kits, in addition to the valve body swaps, fairly sure someone on here already had a pulley-kit done, unfortunately if they don't change the oil pump pressure valve then probably same issue will eventually occur.

found the link
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I should find out today what direction they are going to go. I do think they are replacing more then a failed component seeing as I was told the cost difference on a a rebuild to a new CVT was only $500. We shall see. Thank you for the replies.
 

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Canadian dealers dont do the sub assembly repair. We were not shipped any of the required tools to perform it. So any P17F0 gets a transmission, P17F1 gets a chain inspection, if an acceptable or no amount of chain slip is found it gets a valve body, if excessive slip or large amounts of metal in the pan we are required to send a video in to get approval of a CVT.

If your in canada depending on the extended warranty they will likely go the used route. Make sure the dealer scans for dtcs after to ensure a P17F0/1 doesnt pop up. Alternatively what we have done is if the extended warranty will only cover a used trans, we will offer the customer a discount on a new unit and ask them if they want to pay the difference.

Transfer case techically doesn't need to come out, but the FSM says it does. 90% of techs pull the t case out as it makes life easier which means the manifold and cat come out also. Parts and labour 1 year 20,000kms on new units. We don't have many issues with the new units. Back in 2013/2014 we'd replace them and end up replacing them again a couple years later as they were the exact same part.
 

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Nistech, thank you for taking a part in the discussion. As I understand you are aware of CVT issues from Nissan's side.

Could you please say what is a real reason and source of the problems, shudder etc. in 2013-2016 models of PF? Is it a control valve body? Is new superseeded version of control valve body doesn't have previous issues and after replacement CVT will work long years without problems?

Do 15-16 model year PF still have potentially weak part in CVT that can be replaced preventively to avoid future expensive problems?

Thank you for your help.
 

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Nistech, thank you for taking a part in the discussion. As I understand you are aware of CVT issues from Nissan's side.

Could you please say what is a real reason and source of the problems, shudder etc. in 2013-2016 models of PF? Is it a control valve body? Is new superseeded version of control valve body doesn't have previous issues and after replacement CVT will work long years without problems?

Do 15-16 model year PF still have potentially weak part in CVT that can be replaced preventively to avoid future expensive problems?

Thank you for your help.
.

The unfortunate thing is Nissan use to well document and inform us of any relevance/failure on any bulletin/campaign, That stopped about 5 years ago. We are pretty much in the dark, I think they prefer us not to know to avoid spilling too much information.

As far as I am aware, The judder issue people are experiencing is directly related to the Control valve/Valve body. Most of us kind of figure its a solenoid issue that either isn't capable of keeping enough pressure or is leaking pressure past its seal. When that happens the chain starts to slip and the metal debris circulates through the transmission damaging the other solenoids, clogging the filter and the cooler in the drivers front wheel well.

The Updated control valve kit, has an; updated Control valve, filter, lip seal, pan gasket and some updated brackets for the new filter design and temperature sensor. Generally we dont see them come back after a control valve replacement. Out of the 100's we do we only have had maybe 5 come back and usually at that point PCC will call for a CVT replacement. When the control valve is replaced we are required to inspect both sides of the chain with a boroscope to confirm the condition prior to putting a Control valve in it.

We mostly saw 2013-2014 with judder complaints. We replaced a lot of transmissions on those. After 2015 the number of actual transmission replacements are much lower but the amount of valve body replacements is still fairly high. A lot of those 13-14 cars back then that got CVT replacements was because they didn't have a fix per say at the time. We didn't replace anything on them, just entire units. We dont do as many transmissions on the 15-16+ anymore but they still do come in for the occasional P17F0. You'd be surprised how many come in for another issue and there is P17F1 stored but no complaint of judder. Id say once you get the updated control valve it should be good to go. We have a couple that roll through with over 200K on them and no issues.
 

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Thanks, you are probably gave the most detailed info on this topic over the Internet))

So to provide long years to our CVT:
  • check if errors are stored regularly
  • check if metal debris in the tranny fluid regularly
  • the best option is to replace control valve body preventively on new superseeded version
Is it correct?
 

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That would be my best suggestion. Regularly scan the vehicle for DTCS and if you feel any sort of Judder/Vibration etc take it in to the dealer while its still under warranty. As much as you guys are going to hate hearing this, pay the dealer to change the CVT fluid. You will have a much better chance of getting things covered under Good Will that way, as Nissan will contact the Dealer and ask if they have had any "servicing" done at your location. If you maintain a good relationship with your Advisor and Service Manager it goes along way when the car is out of warranty or up nearing the end of its warranty.
 

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As far as I am aware, The judder issue people are experiencing is directly related to the Control valve/Valve body. Most of us kind of figure its a solenoid issue that either isn't capable of keeping enough pressure or is leaking pressure past its seal. When that happens the chain starts to slip and the metal debris circulates through the transmission damaging the other solenoids, clogging the filter and the cooler in the drivers front wheel well.

The Updated control valve kit, has an; updated Control valve, filter, lip seal, pan gasket and some updated brackets for the new filter design and temperature sensor. Generally we dont see them come back after a control valve replacement. Out of the 100's we do we only have had maybe 5 come back and usually at that point PCC will call for a CVT replacement. When the control valve is replaced we are required to inspect both sides of the chain with a boroscope to confirm the condition prior to putting a Control valve in it.
What about the flow control valve in the oil pump, which you can't get to with just a valve body replacement ? Lots of places talk about the flow control valve being prone to wear. Has the pump changed in the 17+ models ? I know with my last CVT issues, they ended up replacing the CVT but was the same part number, and even when they were pushing the valve body, it was again same part number as the one that previously failed.

Are you seeing any CVT issues on 2017-2019 year models ?
 

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The flow control valve is not replaced in the control valve replacement. I have definitely read about the flow control valve issues but mostly seem to be pertaining to sonnax/transgo articles. I suspect the P17F0 code would indicate an issue and does involve dissassembly and inspection of the actual CVT vs just the chain inspection. The P17F0 might have a lot to do with the flow control valve. I will look into that monday. During the article it did note delayed engagement of forward/reverse. We especially note that when the auxillary gear box/clutch point learning has not been completed correctly after control valve/cvt replacement.

I cant say for sure about the pump on the 2017+. All i can say is that i cannot recall off the top of my head doing anything transmission related on the 2017+ models. Although we have definitely had some issues with sludge build up and people not sticking to oil change intervals on the 17+ direct injection engines. Unless they all start failing at once id say the 17+ is probably a safe buy transmission wise.

During a meeting, it was discussed that many control valve repeat failures were due to one of 2 reasons. 1. Incorrect or not flushing the cooler and lines. 2. Improper diagnosis and inspection of the chain. Its hard the first few times to inspect the belt, the boroscope had a mirror on the end and fluid ends up leaking over it so it can be tricky at first. Thats not without saying that the above mentioned are always the case but it became such a dicussed topic bulletins were released regarding corrrect flushing procedures and inspection of the chain.
 

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The NS3 fluid discolors pretty fast so fluid color isnt really an indication of condition. On that topic im fairly certain there was a bulletin regarding that too. If i were to own a CVT equipped I would replace the fluid every 50-60,000km. I perfer to change my fluids on the more frequent side of things. Not only are they imperative to the correct operation and longevity, they are also a very good warning indicator.

If you have a 17+ pathfinder or for that matter any direct injection vehicle i would suggest changing the oil every 6000km if you plan on keeping it outside of the lease period. Atleast have one used oil analysis done to determine a proper OCI. Ive seen these things come in with oil changes every 15-16k and by the time they hit 75-80k they are smoking and the valve covers are sludged right up.
 

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What can you say about 2016 model year of PF (pre restyle year) ? Are they more reliable than 2013-2015? Were a lot of CVT issues with them? Have there an updated control valve already installed?

Thank you!
 

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I will check Monday. As far as reliability goes. 2015-2016 seems to be more reliable then the 2013-2014. Thats fairly common as it usually takes manufactures a year or two to sort out bugs. the 17+ id say would likely be the year to go for, But I would proceed with caution also as direct injected engines tend to suffer from carbon build up issues on the intake valves. This is a issue globally aside from a few manufacturers that use an auxiliary port injection system to aid in the carbon build up. Stay on top of oil changes, DI engines are very hard on oil, and the 0W20 change over seem to be less forgiving on those who like to go 13-14K per oil change.

The R52 aside from the known CVT issues are not inherently unreliable. In terms of common issues I see id probably say;

-Radiator cooling fans
-Transfer case leak from the right side inner seal (Make sure you guys check, its covered under the 5/100k)
-Heated/Cooled seat harness/control unit failure (Melts the harness and control unit)
-Wheel bearings - usually fronts but occasionally rears.

Those are probably the most common items we see. I dont really see the Pathfinders come in on the hook often. Make sure you've had the ABS Actuator inspection/Replacement completed. Depending on the VIN, it may require inspection or replacement. Catalytic converters rarely fail, engine mounts are solid, the EPS system while somewhat noisy has been trouble free. Drive train aside from the CVT has been good too.

The R52 are hard on brakes and tires. Keep up on the preventative maintenance (including alignments) and enjoy driving them without worrying too much.
 

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Confirmed oil pump does get replaced during the P17F0. Perhaps the TCM is able to detect a failing/out of spec flow control valve/low pump output. That i am not sure of but it would definitely make sense. I am also unable to confirm if the oil pump is an updated part or not. There is no documented part number as it is part of the sub-assy repair kit.
 
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