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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings! The every day driver of the wife has 180,000 miles on it and....up until today....still going strong. Beyond routine maintenance and a new starter, the car has performed wonderfully. While I should be happy that it refused to take her Target today to spend more of my money, I'm now typing with greasy fingers and a sweaty brow. I could use a little guidance.

A brief history:
-Three months ago it went in for an oil change and a new pass side window motor. Was told the battery was lower than normal on cranking amps, and the hot terminal and cable showed a good amount of corrosion.
-A Month ago it wouldn't start. No evidence of the starter engaging at all. (All other electrical components worked normally) Had the starter replaced and since winter is coming, I had them replace the battery and that corroded hot battery cable.
-Has been running great, even took an 800 mile round trip since the last repair. No signs of trouble.

Today:
-Door locks, power seats, horn, headlights, turn signals, AC/Heater blower, door panel control switches, and interior lights have no power.
-No starter engagement
-Key system recognizes when the key is present, and allows ACC mode to go on. Still no power to the above listed components.
-Radio and dash are powered.

I checked the obvious. Battery terminals are tight. No exposed wiring or indication of animal damage under the hood or in the fuse boxes. No obvious loose relays or plugs.
I'm thinking It has to be a bad fuse or a relay, I just am looking for a starting point to really dig in.

I appreciate any help! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
FIXED:

With my big brain, I begin methodically checking every fuse and relay I can get my hands on. Visual inspection, sniff testing, etc. I start in the cabin as it seemed logical since some things there had power.

I work my way toward the battery, tracing the wiring through the firewall into the fuse boxes under the hood. Checking for in-line fuses or other loose or frayed wires/plugs. I unplug everything and plug it back in looking like a lunatic as sniff my way along.

Then I found it....one...inch....from the positive terminal.

Most Nissan models of the era feature a “Battery Fuse.” I was aware of the 3 - 100a fuses and the 2 - 80a fuses on the side of the battery fuse. All looked perfect. Then I see a little plastic piece that was absolutely covered in red anti corrosive goop.

I scrape the mess away and see a 250a marking on the window. I hold it up and can see a whole lot of day light through the obliterated fuse.

One trip to autozone and 39.99 later, all is right with the world.
15595
 

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Fuses blow to protect other components, something else is drawing excessive current to have caused that to blow, you still sniffing ? Maybe starter motor ?
 

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2013 Pathfinder SL, Connecticut, USA
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jman, he stated in the thread title that it is a 2013. BMFM, and everyone else, it's a good idea to add profile info about your year, trim level and location, so we can all help you better in your posts.
 
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