[Phenomenon1986]

I have a vibration in the driveshaft, got the u joints to change but ended up being the wrong ones. Can I remove the shaft for now and just drive the car in 2wd?

 

[jman]

I am pretty sure that when I had an issue with mine, the technician said he took it off and drove around without it to confirm that that was the source of the vibration.

 

[PoManzPathy]

You can remove the rear prop shaft indefinitely if you want. People do it if they have a bad rear coupling or are waiting on a new rear coupling. If you remove the prop shaft and you still have driveline noise or vibes, it could be a transfer case problem or maybe a rear differential problem. I haven't heard of rear diff issues with the 2013+ though. T-case problems are common due to it's shitty design and location.

 

[Tutti57]

Just curious how you determined it was the driveshaft? Disconnecting it is an option to isolate the problem.

If you're a data nerd like me, you can download an NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) app, probably for free. You can also buy a sirometer for about $20 that measures vibration frequency, and doing some basic calculations, you can determine if the source is engine, wheel, or drive line. The app just does the math for you.

 

[jman]

I wish all techs were data nerds, we need more like you.
My PF vibrated since day one and took the dealer 18 months to find the issue.

 

[Phenomenon1986]

Just curious how you determined it was the driveshaft? Disconnecting it is an option to isolate the problem.

If you're a data nerd like me, you can download an NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) app, probably for free. You can also buy a sirometer for about $20 that measures vibration frequency, and doing some basic calculations, you can determine if the source is engine, wheel, or drive line. The app just does the math for you.
[/QUOT

 

[Phenomenon1986]

Transmission went bad, had it replaced and flashed a few weeks ago. Still had a slight vibration but was not reading any transmission codes. Replaced one cv axel because it was a little sloppy. Their was still a vibration that turned into a banging noise. I pulled the shaft and both you joints are beaten up, support is ripped so I have figured can’t hurt to pull it and try. A lot of it stopped but their is still something. Went back to check the cvt fluid levels and it seems burnt already. Guess I’m talking it back to a dealer to figure out what’s up with it

 

[PoManzPathy]

I'm assuming they swapped your transfer case from the old transmission over to the one that's in the vehicle now? Did you check fluid level on it? They hold so little and are so awkward to do, it's best just to make sure you can get the fill plug open, then pull the drain plug, drain it and refill it. On my 2019, it only holds ounces of gear oil. Run it low and it's toast.

 

[Phenomenon1986]

I'm assuming they swapped your transfer case from the old transmission over to the one that's in the vehicle now? Did you check fluid level on it? They hold so little and are so awkward to do, it's best just to make sure you can get the fill plug open, then pull the drain plug, drain it and refill it. On my 2019, it only holds ounces of gear oil. Run it low and it's toast.

You really can’t check the fluid in the transfer case tho right? That’s a drain and refill?

 

[Tutti57]

There's a drain plug and a fill plug. The drain is the lowest one. You can pour oil into the fill until it starts running out of the hole. That means it's full. Those usually sound pretty awful when they are bad.

Did you try getting one of the apps to see where the vibration is coming from? Could be a wheel weight came off when the other work was done. Who knows?

What color is the fluid when you say it looks burnt? The only time they ever really come out blue is the first time it comes out of a new one when you're warming it up to get the level right.