Anyone here from Canada who had their CVT replaced under warranty? If so, can you tell me if the dealer bothered to 'reprogram' the CVT before replacing it? I've been having the shudder issue and a local dealer today told me my 2014 with 15,000kms isn't giving any error codes so they will go ahead with replacing it. I'm hesitant given that the replacement is a reman and the fact that it has low mileage. I've also read on here how some had theirs reprogrammed and the issue went away. Thoughts?
revhard
In my case they first said they were going to replace the whole transmission. Then they called and said that Nissan had instructed them to replace the valve body. I was happy with that.
Mine did throw a code.... the code was "Replace Transmission". You need the latest software installed to get the code, the old software won't throw any.
After they reprogrammed mine, I noticed that the rpms were higher at low speeds when under load (going uphill), this did reduce the shudder but it did not eliminate it. I had to re-learn how to reproduce it after it was re-programmed.
One of the technicians told me that he had started seeing that Nissan was now allowing them to fix the CVTs as before were all full replacements.
Not all are the same but at least 3 of us in the forum had our shudder fixed by replacing the valve body.
Mine did throw a code.... the code was "Replace Transmission". You need the latest software installed to get the code, the old software won't throw any.
After they reprogrammed mine, I noticed that the rpms were higher at low speeds when under load (going uphill), this did reduce the shudder but it did not eliminate it. I had to re-learn how to reproduce it after it was re-programmed.
One of the technicians told me that he had started seeing that Nissan was now allowing them to fix the CVTs as before were all full replacements.
Not all are the same but at least 3 of us in the forum had our shudder fixed by replacing the valve body.
I have a 2014 Platinum and the dealer replaced the valve body on mine. Not sure if it was reprogrammed, however, I haven't had any shudder issues that were noticeable. I do hear a loud whiny noise on a cold start when the temps are below 45F or so, which was not the case prior to the valve body replacement.
So at 53,000 miles I just had my CVT replaced under warranty with a reman CVT. Although not a Canadian vehicle, I think my story is still relevant, although a bit long.
I have a 2013 Pathfinder Platinum 4WD ( 12/12 build date ). I experienced my first judder at about 500 miles. At that time Nissan had no idea what to do so I waited. I had several TCM reprograms performed and at 10,000 miles they replaced my torque converter. This seemed to take care of the juddering problem. But I was always concerned that internal damage to my CVT had occurred. This concern was dismissed by Nissan. Over the next 40,000 miles I probably experienced the judder about 5 times. But the transmission never "felt right" to me. This past winter it started doing something new. When I tried to accelerate hard out of a turn, like turning left onto a 2 lane highway, the car would surge forward then lag, then surge then lag, all the while the RPM's remained high. This was followed by a large jolt and the car would finally accelerate forward. So I went like this for a month or so trying to make sure I could duplicate it for the dealer. Oddly as it got warmer outside it did this less frequently. Finally I call the service manager at my dealership and spoke to her. She seemed to know exactly what I was talking about and told me to bring it in so they code hook it up to the computer and check it out.
This is where I think it gets interesting. They keep it for a week and finally call me telling me that the CVT threw an error code and Nissan was replacing the transmission. Several days later they call back and tell me Nissan denied the CVT replacement ??? It turns out my dealership did not follow the proper steps of making sure the TCM had the very latest software. Once they went back and updated the TCM - they couldn't get the transmission to throw a code so no replacement. However when driving it, the mechanic still thinks there is something wrong, so they decide to open up the CVT and check the valve body. I was told that when they opened it up there were metal shavings everywhere. They photographed it, sent it to Nissan and a replacement was authorized.
I have several personal observations after dealing with this for 3 years now.
1) There were definitely flaws in the CVT's in the 2013-2014 models.
2) Most were corrected by software updates, with the exception of the valve body. The torque converter was addressed very early on in the build process. I believe the valve body was probably the biggest problem but was not discovered until much later.
3) I think some people will never experience it based on their driving style. If you are an easy driver you may never experience the problem.
4) If you are having a problem with the CVT, do not wait. I know it is a huge pain but the longer you let it go the more damage can occur inside the transmission. The TCM updates will mitigate the symptoms, but that does nothing for any damage that has already occurred. I believe Nissan will fix it if forced, but based on my experience they are just as happy to get you down the road and out of warranty. My repair was over $7500. In my case they had to replace the CVT and the front drive shaft assembly.
5) It helps to have a good relationship with your dealership. They want to see you happy. Just remember, if they can't prove the problem to Nissan, they aren't getting paid.
I have a 2013 Pathfinder Platinum 4WD ( 12/12 build date ). I experienced my first judder at about 500 miles. At that time Nissan had no idea what to do so I waited. I had several TCM reprograms performed and at 10,000 miles they replaced my torque converter. This seemed to take care of the juddering problem. But I was always concerned that internal damage to my CVT had occurred. This concern was dismissed by Nissan. Over the next 40,000 miles I probably experienced the judder about 5 times. But the transmission never "felt right" to me. This past winter it started doing something new. When I tried to accelerate hard out of a turn, like turning left onto a 2 lane highway, the car would surge forward then lag, then surge then lag, all the while the RPM's remained high. This was followed by a large jolt and the car would finally accelerate forward. So I went like this for a month or so trying to make sure I could duplicate it for the dealer. Oddly as it got warmer outside it did this less frequently. Finally I call the service manager at my dealership and spoke to her. She seemed to know exactly what I was talking about and told me to bring it in so they code hook it up to the computer and check it out.
This is where I think it gets interesting. They keep it for a week and finally call me telling me that the CVT threw an error code and Nissan was replacing the transmission. Several days later they call back and tell me Nissan denied the CVT replacement ??? It turns out my dealership did not follow the proper steps of making sure the TCM had the very latest software. Once they went back and updated the TCM - they couldn't get the transmission to throw a code so no replacement. However when driving it, the mechanic still thinks there is something wrong, so they decide to open up the CVT and check the valve body. I was told that when they opened it up there were metal shavings everywhere. They photographed it, sent it to Nissan and a replacement was authorized.
I have several personal observations after dealing with this for 3 years now.
1) There were definitely flaws in the CVT's in the 2013-2014 models.
2) Most were corrected by software updates, with the exception of the valve body. The torque converter was addressed very early on in the build process. I believe the valve body was probably the biggest problem but was not discovered until much later.
3) I think some people will never experience it based on their driving style. If you are an easy driver you may never experience the problem.
4) If you are having a problem with the CVT, do not wait. I know it is a huge pain but the longer you let it go the more damage can occur inside the transmission. The TCM updates will mitigate the symptoms, but that does nothing for any damage that has already occurred. I believe Nissan will fix it if forced, but based on my experience they are just as happy to get you down the road and out of warranty. My repair was over $7500. In my case they had to replace the CVT and the front drive shaft assembly.
5) It helps to have a good relationship with your dealership. They want to see you happy. Just remember, if they can't prove the problem to Nissan, they aren't getting paid.
marz989, sounds like you got yourself a good dealer there. The first time I raised my judder concern at the dealer I bought the PF from, the shop foreman basically told me I was SOL at less than 5k. Mind you he told me I was also SOL on the high pitch noise regarding the power steering pump. But this latest dealer who fixed my judder also got rid of the high pitch noise. The shop foreman there seems to be more intune with the service bulletins.
I forgot to mention in my CVT case, the judder became more evident when running a/c when it was hot out.
I forgot to mention in my CVT case, the judder became more evident when running a/c when it was hot out.
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FYI....Second CVT
A few weeks I noticed my o/d light would light up while driving under 60km/h. It started getting worse and I didnt think much of it until I started experiencing the judder between 40-60km/h. So I brought it in to the dealer for inspection and sure enough it supposedly threw a code requiring again a new transmission. At this point I was hesitant for them to work on it as I always seem to leave that dealership with a whole new other issue. But the service advisor I deal with reassured me it should be ok. So a week later the dealer dropped a new transmission in there. All seemed good until I got off work. My car wouldn't wouldn't start and I kept hearing a ticking noise under the hood as if it's trying to start. I got a boost and manage to go on my way. Never had this happen before with the PF so I thought it was just a fluke. Drove it for 45min to the inlaws. Again on our way out the PF wouldnt start. Popped the hood and again the same ticking noise. Tried to get my inlaw's MDX to give a boost, no luck for some reason which was odd. The radio and electronics seem to work fine when both batteries were connected but it wont turn over. Just the ticking noise under the hood. So decided to call CAA. An hour later tow truck shows up and tried to give a boost. Same thing. Wont turn over. As the tech was pulling the booster cable clamp off the positive terminal, the battery clamp came with it. As it turns out the f*&^ mechanic did not bother to fully tighten the battery terminal clamp!! Not only that but during the course of looking at the battery issue, I noticed that the hood on the driver side was no longer lining up with the fender. It's 1/8" higher than the fender from mid towards the headlight. The bolts that mount the hood on to the brackets had their paint chipped off which indicate that a socket was used on them. I figured they might have removed the hood and just need to pull it down to even it out with the fender. Went straight to the dealer first thing Monday morning. Service advisor I usually deal with was apologetic about battery incident and offered some compensation. With regards to the hood, the shop foreman had a look and was adamant they did not touch the hood eventhough the markings on the bolts. Told him I'm 100% sure that wasnt there prior to dropping it off since I'm meticulous with my cars and so I wash my cars by hand and would know if something like that doesnt line up. It's just too obvious. After some arguing back and forth he said bring it back later as they need hours on it. The service advisor knew me well enough that an issue like that is something I would have brought up right away so he agreed that something had happened to that hood while it was in the shop. He actually pointed out that due to the markings on the plastic piece inside just below the hood line towards the fender it looks as if somebody had shut the hood tight without realizing they forgot something inside. They argued that their techs would not do something like that. I said really? the same techs who forgot to tighten the battery terminal, the same techs who used a socket bigger than the actual size of the bolt hole on the factory Platinum wheel stripping the paint inside? At this point I'm not even sure if it's worth getting them to look at the hood issue in case they break some other shiet.
But in any case, I dont think this new CVT will last longer than the second one. Although faint at this point, I can already feel the slight judder under 60kmh.
A few weeks I noticed my o/d light would light up while driving under 60km/h. It started getting worse and I didnt think much of it until I started experiencing the judder between 40-60km/h. So I brought it in to the dealer for inspection and sure enough it supposedly threw a code requiring again a new transmission. At this point I was hesitant for them to work on it as I always seem to leave that dealership with a whole new other issue. But the service advisor I deal with reassured me it should be ok. So a week later the dealer dropped a new transmission in there. All seemed good until I got off work. My car wouldn't wouldn't start and I kept hearing a ticking noise under the hood as if it's trying to start. I got a boost and manage to go on my way. Never had this happen before with the PF so I thought it was just a fluke. Drove it for 45min to the inlaws. Again on our way out the PF wouldnt start. Popped the hood and again the same ticking noise. Tried to get my inlaw's MDX to give a boost, no luck for some reason which was odd. The radio and electronics seem to work fine when both batteries were connected but it wont turn over. Just the ticking noise under the hood. So decided to call CAA. An hour later tow truck shows up and tried to give a boost. Same thing. Wont turn over. As the tech was pulling the booster cable clamp off the positive terminal, the battery clamp came with it. As it turns out the f*&^ mechanic did not bother to fully tighten the battery terminal clamp!! Not only that but during the course of looking at the battery issue, I noticed that the hood on the driver side was no longer lining up with the fender. It's 1/8" higher than the fender from mid towards the headlight. The bolts that mount the hood on to the brackets had their paint chipped off which indicate that a socket was used on them. I figured they might have removed the hood and just need to pull it down to even it out with the fender. Went straight to the dealer first thing Monday morning. Service advisor I usually deal with was apologetic about battery incident and offered some compensation. With regards to the hood, the shop foreman had a look and was adamant they did not touch the hood eventhough the markings on the bolts. Told him I'm 100% sure that wasnt there prior to dropping it off since I'm meticulous with my cars and so I wash my cars by hand and would know if something like that doesnt line up. It's just too obvious. After some arguing back and forth he said bring it back later as they need hours on it. The service advisor knew me well enough that an issue like that is something I would have brought up right away so he agreed that something had happened to that hood while it was in the shop. He actually pointed out that due to the markings on the plastic piece inside just below the hood line towards the fender it looks as if somebody had shut the hood tight without realizing they forgot something inside. They argued that their techs would not do something like that. I said really? the same techs who forgot to tighten the battery terminal, the same techs who used a socket bigger than the actual size of the bolt hole on the factory Platinum wheel stripping the paint inside? At this point I'm not even sure if it's worth getting them to look at the hood issue in case they break some other shiet.
But in any case, I dont think this new CVT will last longer than the second one. Although faint at this point, I can already feel the slight judder under 60kmh.
As mentioned, the software update doesn't fix anything, it only allows the code criteria to be different so that they show up when they didn't before. There is a service bulletin that explains this.
I don't believe it's wack a mole...the cvt is sensitive to faults and provides specific codes for the faults. They would only replace what has been detected as an issue at that time. Sometimes it's valve bodies, sometimes overhauls, sometimes replacements.
A "reprogram" is part of the replacement procedure after any of the above repairs are made. They aren't going to skip that step.
Sent from my moto g fast using Tapatalk
I don't believe it's wack a mole...the cvt is sensitive to faults and provides specific codes for the faults. They would only replace what has been detected as an issue at that time. Sometimes it's valve bodies, sometimes overhauls, sometimes replacements.
A "reprogram" is part of the replacement procedure after any of the above repairs are made. They aren't going to skip that step.
Sent from my moto g fast using Tapatalk
I have a 2014 pathfinder . Took my path to the dealer because my ac wasn’t working . Blowing hot air. They did a diagnostic on the car they replace the AC condenser and the AC compressor cost me $4000 to complete the job. on my way driving out from the Dealer parking lot when I got to the red light my car started jerking so I took it back to Nissan and they wanted to charge me another diagnostic cost to find out why my car was jerking . my car jerks below 60 mph on the highway. They still couldn’t tell me what was wrong with my car. The 3rd time I took it back to the dealer they said it was a transmission problem. I’m very upset because when I did the diagnostic the first time , nothing came up with the code with my transmission and first of all when I bought my car in there was no jerking problem my car drove perfectly fine. I called Nissan corporate and made a complaint about the service and they sabotage my car.
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